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new cd and htp wicks for cocowax 83


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The smallest, depending on what you have in your kit, could be far too small.

 

To learn what your wicks will do, I'd make the first one without a wick.

when completely cooled, poke a skewer down the center.

carefully thread the first wick into the hole.

light and observe. 

If too big or too small, let it cool, pull the wick and replace. 

 

When you dial it in, make new ones properly with tabbed wicks.

 

you won't be able to burn the untabbed ones too far before they tip over and extinguish. In the status you may get to the 2/3 burned point before that happens. In tins it's s outnthe half way point. 

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I burned 2 unscented cocowax 83 status jar last night - a cd 8 and a cd 10.  The cd 8 went out after 35 minutes. I re-lit it later in the day for another hour.  The cd 10 burned for 3 hours, did not make a fmp, and the flame was nice and steady; except for every once in a while it would flutter a little. 

 

This morning, the cd 8 is slightly discolored where the melt pool was, and it's also recessed.  The cd 10 is also has the recessed melt pool, but not discolored.  This makes me wonder if the wick is just going to tunnel.  I'm also guessing that the discolored wax was too hot?  If so then why wasn't the melt pool wider?

 

Now, the first coconut wax candles I made were with wooden wicks. After burning them for over 20 hours there is some hang up, but none of the wax discolored, no recessed melt pour area .....the melt pool area is nice and smooth.

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Still burning the cd 8 and 10.  I did the "wickless" pour and added wicks later; one I wick I put in off center, one wick I nailed!

But the nicely centered one is burning crooked - one side of the candle has quite a bit of hang up.  The off center wick is burning crooked as well but I don't care much because I think the whole thing is underwicked any way. 

 

These are, in order, cd 10 at 2.5 hrs., and cd8 at 2.5 hrs. 

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Edited by lenarenee
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What other wick types are there to try for coconut wax?  I've heard of rrd....any other ones I should try?  And from what supplier?  I've read here that not all series wicks are the same depending on the supplier.

Edited by lenarenee
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  • 7 months later...
On 1/14/2018 at 6:28 PM, TallTayl said:

The smallest, depending on what you have in your kit, could be far too small.

 

To learn what your wicks will do, I'd make the first one without a wick.

when completely cooled, poke a skewer down the center.

carefully thread the first wick into the hole.

light and observe. 

If too big or too small, let it cool, pull the wick and replace. 

 

When you dial it in, make new ones properly with tabbed wicks.

 

you won't be able to burn the untabbed ones too far before they tip over and extinguish. In the status you may get to the 2/3 burned point before that happens. In tins it's s outnthe half way point. 

Hi. I do that too when testing out different wicks, it can be a real time saver and help to save on product too. One thing to remember is that some wicks are directional and some are not. Directional means the wick is designed to have the wax flow in one direction through the wick, in order to burn properly. So, when you cut off a piece of wick, be sure to insert it in the same direction as if the wick tab was still attached. You don't want to insert the wick upside down, I learned that the hard way because you can get unpredictable results. To be safe & save time I always just assume a wick is directional and insert it properly. Most wick information will say if it is directional or not.

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