Best para-soy blend for container candles?

[Gary in Canada]

On 11/1/2017 at 2:28 PM, Flicker said:

This is a loaded question, it may yield you dozens of answers, none the same.

 

However, I personally love the IGI 6006 and have been using it so long, that when I started it was still Dussek Campbell making it, then it went to BP, then to IGI. Yep, a long time. I personally love it. Enough soy to "keep it clean" enough paraffin to burn stellar and throw amazingly!

 

@FlickerI just ordered 6006, which is FINALLY available in Canada...I am so frustrated with soy these days, I had to try something different and after reading a lot..I wanted to try 6006.  Just received it today so Im looking forward to trying it.  May I ask what wick series you use?  Our supplier up here recommended HTP... Thanks for any help...

[Sarah S]

10 hours ago, Gary in Canada said:

@FlickerI just ordered 6006, which is FINALLY available in Canada...I am so frustrated with soy these days, I had to try something different and after reading a lot..I wanted to try 6006.  Just received it today so Im looking forward to trying it.  May I ask what wick series you use?  Our supplier up here recommended HTP... Thanks for any help...

 

Gary, I use HTPs in parasoy and they work very well.

I believe some others have success with zincs... Hopefully someone else will chime in with some more options for you.

[Flicker]

I have always used cd series in it

[Testing123]

1 hour ago, Flicker said:

I have always used cd series in it

Hello have you ever used eco wicks? I ask because i just order cd wicks and mine look like eco, just want to make sure that they aren't same wicks. do eco wicks look like cd?

Edited May 21, 2018 by Testing123

[Flicker]

23 hours ago, Testing123 said:

Hello have you ever used eco wicks? I ask because i just order cd wicks and mine look like eco, just want to make sure that they aren't same wicks. do eco wicks look like cd?

I have. they all look similar but burn very differently. eco work fine in 6006 but use a MUCH smaller size

 

[Gary in Canada]

I tried a ECO 2...6% FO (Lily of the Valley)..6006...2.5" glass container.  It smoked like crazy on the second burn. I ended up switching it out for an HTP104... Seems to be working ok now. 

[Testing123]

Hi everyone...would love your opinions on this matter.

 

Sometimes when I'm burning a candle made with problend 600 I smell the wax along with the fragrance of course. Is this customary with para/soy blends? A noticeable paraffin smell?

 

When I burn soy I don't ever smell the wax...

 

I hope I make sense

Edited May 23, 2018 by Testing123

[Testing123]

Just to clarify the smell is reminiscent of fuel/petro...I'm blaming the paraffin because my pure soy candles don't have that smell. And the smell also reminds me of cheap candles I used to buy from the dollar store.

 

I've been using problend for a while and fell in love because of teh ease of use and smooth tops but I can't ignore the smell anymore.

 

Out the package it doesn't have that smell.

 

For those wondering Im using eco wicks

Edited May 23, 2018 by Testing123

[TallTayl]

Could just be wicked wrong. Eco is often pretty hot for paraffin even in blends unless you hit the sweet spot of balancing the ROc with heat the flame let’s off. Usually that means wicking down more than you are used to. 

 

I get fryolator smell from most soy wax. It’s pretty off-putting in its own way.

[Testing123]

Thank you Tall! You know I have been thinking the candles were burning too fast, but I never linked it to the smell. I will wick down and see what happens!! Thank you again. You are super helpful

Edited May 23, 2018 by Testing123

[TallTayl]

Hope you find that nice balance. It’s magical when it comes together. 👍🏻🤞🏻

[obsessed]

On 5/23/2018 at 12:16 PM, Gary in Canada said:

I tried a ECO 2...6% FO (Lily of the Valley)..6006...2.5" glass container.  It smoked like crazy on the second burn. I ended up switching it out for an HTP104... Seems to be working ok now. 

How did you go GAry with the HTP wicks in 6006? I live in Australia and we have only CDN or HTP available. A few  candle suppliers do their own private wicks , but there's not a great deal of info on them. I have both 4630 & 6006 , but so far , I've only tried the 4630. It was not good! hahahaha  I have no idea what to do and it smoked a lot/ had a big flame and smelt like petrol. So ... yes , I over-wicked! LOL   how much do you recommend i wick down in comparison to soy , for testing? 

[Gary in Canada]

On 6/14/2018 at 6:20 AM, obsessed said:

How did you go GAry with the HTP wicks in 6006? I live in Australia and we have only CDN or HTP available. A few  candle suppliers do their own private wicks , but there's not a great deal of info on them. I have both 4630 & 6006 , but so far , I've only tried the 4630. It was not good! hahahaha  I have no idea what to do and it smoked a lot/ had a big flame and smelt like petrol. So ... yes , I over-wicked! LOL   how much do you recommend i wick down in comparison to soy , for testing? 

Well...Im no expect by any means..but I tried the HTP104 in the 2.5" container, with 6% Lily of the Valley...it seemed to work good, but I might even go down to a 93 and try that.  I find the best way to try wicks is pouring the candle without a wick then poking a hole down the centre and feed the wick down..If it doesn't work, then its easy to pull out with pliers and go up or down a size.  

 

And on a side note...you have Eroma in Australia, and they have such a great variety of containers IMO.  Canadian suppliers are about 10yrs behind with their containers. And I like how Eroma also recommends a starting point for the wick for all their containers.  I wish they would open a Canadian branch lol...

[Sarah S]

15 hours ago, Gary in Canada said:

Well...Im no expect by any means..but I tried the HTP104 in the 2.5" container, with 6% Lily of the Valley...it seemed to work good, but I might even go down to a 93 and try that.  I find the best way to try wicks is pouring the candle without a wick then poking a hole down the centre and feed the wick down..If it doesn't work, then its easy to pull out with pliers and go up or down a size.  

 

And on a side note...you have Eroma in Australia, and they have such a great variety of containers IMO.  Canadian suppliers are about 10yrs behind with their containers. And I like how Eroma also recommends a starting point for the wick for all their containers.  I wish they would open a Canadian branch lol...

 

For a 2.5" container with a floral FO, I'd go down to a 73 or even a 63. Guarenteed every time I think I'm under wicked with the CBL 125 (very similar to 4630), I get to the bottom 1/4 of the jar and the burn finishes beautifully. If I start with what I think is a good wick, the bottom of the burn is sooty and ugly. So I think with the soft wax and HTP combo, you really need to wick for the bottom half of the jar down. IMO. 😁

[Testing123]

So after testing various FOs (from different suppliers) and wicks with Problend 600 I continue to get a fuel smell. I've discontinued use. Maybe my nose is just too sensitive.

[xalwayswins]

Brand new to the board, but not to candle making. I've been making / selling candles for 5 years now. Always used 464. I recently started adding 4630. I have been mixing 444 with 464 too. I just cannot find the right mix of the 4630. I add 10% 4630. No matter what temp I pour at I get MASSIVE craters beneath the surface. Tops look perfect until I burn them. After a few minutes of burning the craters open up and all the melted wax fills the nooks causing the wick to burn down. A few minutes later the candle self extinguishes. Ive poured every 5 degree increment from 180 to 115. I love using 464 but want a better throw. I use this all in 9oz straight sided jars. So I know I'm not gonna get the best throw but would like more than I am getting without having to add too much paraffin. Any suggestions???

[wthomas57]

1 hour ago, xalwayswins said:

Brand new to the board, but not to candle making. I've been making / selling candles for 5 years now. Always used 464. I recently started adding 4630. I have been mixing 444 with 464 too. I just cannot find the right mix of the 4630. I add 10% 4630. No matter what temp I pour at I get MASSIVE craters beneath the surface. Tops look perfect until I burn them. After a few minutes of burning the craters open up and all the melted wax fills the nooks causing the wick to burn down. A few minutes later the candle self extinguishes. Ive poured every 5 degree increment from 180 to 115. I love using 464 but want a better throw. I use this all in 9oz straight sided jars. So I know I'm not gonna get the best throw but would like more than I am getting without having to add too much paraffin. Any suggestions???

Welcome! What you are describing is actually more of a characteristic of using 464... not 4630. 464 is known for that. Also, over the past year soy has suffered major issues. So i would be looking at your 46r being the problem. Not the 4630.

 

All that being said... slow down your cure but covering them while they cool..pre hest jars if u have to in order to slow it down.  The wax is contracting so much leaving craters and air bubbles probably too which wxplains why they show up after burning as well.

 

Paraffin coolers down more quickly as well so gind that right pour temp and slow down your cooling after you pour. Good luck

[xalwayswins]

Thanks for the advice. I will try slowing down the cure, I'll need to find a scaleable option for larger batches . I noticed the large issues with the 464 but figured out how to get it back to normal, but adding the paraffin has really thrown me for a loop. 

[wthomas57]

Have you tried 6006? (Its more parrafin).  Its pretty straight forward and not bad to scale. Yes you can still have some "fixing up to do" sometimes from dips or holes, etc. But hard to find a worthwhile wax that doesn't have that. Do you poke relief holes? That helps a lo. If you do that a couple hours into the cure it makes a big difference. Yes it takes some extra time, but it rids you of hidden craters later on that lead to poor candles. 

 

If you are wanting it to scale and NOT need that extra attention like slowing down cure, poking relief holes, etc... that I am not real sure. Most waxes I have ever used need that to a degree. 

 

You can try Clarus waxes as well. I like all their soys better than I like 464. 

[xalwayswins]

6006 has too much paraffin for me. I have tried relief holes but a second pour or remelting tops isn't really a viable option for large batches. Heating the jars helps. I cool all my candles on a bakers rack so I'm thinking of getting the rack cover to try and slow down the cure.

[Laura C]

On 2/10/2018 at 12:51 PM, wthomas57 said:

I blended mine with the trashcan.

Stuff if just AWFUL!

LOL, I like that blending option. Come to think of it, I have some stuff to blend with the trash can too.

[Paintguru]

On 11/1/2017 at 6:25 PM, Ajah said:

Igi 4630 and GW 464 50/50 is good imo.

 

So I've been playing with this blend, and thus far, I'm liking it.  I use a CD6 wick for my 9 oz straight sided jar.  I get a little darkening of the glass near the rim, but not nearly as bad as straight 4630 alone.  Throw on my first test scent has been pretty good thus far.  I need to try some CD4s from somewhere to see if I can wick down even more, but will likely stay with 6's just to make sure I get a full melt pool.  

[Gary in Canada]

On 6/16/2018 at 12:47 PM, Sarah S said:

 

For a 2.5" container with a floral FO, I'd go down to a 73 or even a 63. Guarenteed every time I think I'm under wicked with the CBL 125 (very similar to 4630), I get to the bottom 1/4 of the jar and the burn finishes beautifully. If I start with what I think is a good wick, the bottom of the burn is sooty and ugly. So I think with the soft wax and HTP combo, you really need to wick for the bottom half of the jar down. IMO. 😁

Just revisiting some old posts...and I have to tell you Sarah..I have been doing what you recommended.  HTP73 worked great with 6006, 6% Lily of the Valley in the 8oz straight sided jar 2.5".  Most everything you read says you need a melt pool 1/4"-1/2" the first burn.  I find that if you size your wick to do that, by the last third of the candle there is a LARGE flame, mushrooms etc.  With a smaller wick, it seems to burn good at the start with a small amount of hangup, but takes care of that half way down.  

[Sarah S]

7 hours ago, Gary in Canada said:

Just revisiting some old posts...and I have to tell you Sarah..I have been doing what you recommended.  HTP73 worked great with 6006, 6% Lily of the Valley in the 8oz straight sided jar 2.5".  Most everything you read says you need a melt pool 1/4"-1/2" the first burn.  I find that if you size your wick to do that, by the last third of the candle there is a LARGE flame, mushrooms etc.  With a smaller wick, it seems to burn good at the start with a small amount of hangup, but takes care of that half way down.  

 

I'm so glad you're getting good results!

Its tough to have the patience to wick for the bottom half of the jar, but the results are worth it with a candle that burns beautifully from start to finish.

I'd love to see some pictures of your creations!

[LittleMissSunshine]

20 hours ago, Sarah S said:

 

I'm so glad you're getting good results!

Its tough to have the patience to wick for the bottom half of the jar, but the results are worth it with a candle that burns beautifully from start to finish.

I'd love to see some pictures of your creations!

I have definitely learned that about 6006. I also used the 9oz straight sided jars and found every time that if the first couple burns were beautiful with good sized melt pools, it was horrendously over-wicked. 🤣 By the time they get to the middle they are flaming infernos with huge flickering flames and super deep melt pools.