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Wicking 8oz tins in 464


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With all the problems occuring with 464 and people wicking down I was wondering if wick sizes have changed for tins in 464 wax and cd wicks?

 

I'm about to retest my 8oz tins to see if I need to wick down like I have had in other containers.

 

What size in cd wicks do you use for 8oz tins using 464?

 

Trappeur

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Oh boy.....just what I thought...darn....I'm already wicking down in all my other jars...and I have a huge order that I have to get working on for 8oz tins....

I just called Flaming as they test and spoke with Brandy and she said she tests and uses eco 14's or 12's depending of course on the fragrance.

When I asked what size cd I was told a cd 16 or 18.....but she was reading off the wick chart.  Well those wicks are never going to work as they would be a torch.

 

I have always used a cd 12...

I'm going to test some 10's now....and of course retest in 12's.

 

What size do you use Tall Tayle if you don't mind me asking?

 

Trappeur

 

 

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Sh........................................tt.!!!!!..........

 

Well, the only good thing for me is being that I have a lot of cured waxes sitting in pots I can get these tins done today, let them harden up and test them tomorrow night.....

 

Thanks so much Moonshine!  I will do the 8's, 10's as you suggested.

 

Trappeur

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Holy crap. An eco10 causes my soy wax to fill a room with thick smoke. I can't believe they would recommend those and in that size range!

 

The cd16 is what I need in C3 to get it to burn in tins (edited to add: with about half of my fragrances. The others I drop down to a cd12). C3 is loaded with lecithin, which drastically slows the burn. I was able to replicate the performance of C3 using 415 and liquid lecithin.  But I digress....

 

I would start with a cd10, possibly a cd12 in 464 with fragrance added. I had to adjust all over the place with different fragrances. The burn toward the middle was where things got interesting. The burn of the top portion of tins are always misleading.

 

Or.... if you are the dabbling type, you could add USA, stearic acid or similar to help regulate the burn of 464. It took me a few weeks to figure out what I needed to do with tins when all this soy madness began. 

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10 hours ago, Trappeur said:

 

Well, the only good thing for me is being that I have a lot of cured waxes sitting in pots I can get these tins done today, let them harden up and test them tomorrow night.....

Trappeur

 

Out of curiosity - does this mean you only need to re-heat the wax to pour temp then pour in jar?

 

 

Edited by gls
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Yes it does.

Wax has been cured for 3 weeks and some even longer.  I heat till it is all liquid which is a very low temperature and then pour into my jars.  I do a very thin repour on the top so I can pour at a very low temperature.   I don't want to lose any fragrance throw by heating higher so I do it this way.  Works wonderful.

 

Trappeur

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On 10/3/2017 at 7:33 PM, Trappeur said:

Yes it does.

Wax has been cured for 3 weeks and some even longer.  I heat till it is all liquid which is a very low temperature and then pour into my jars.  I do a very thin repour on the top so I can pour at a very low temperature.   I don't want to lose any fragrance throw by heating higher so I do it this way.  Works wonderful.

 

Trappeur

I'm so confused by this - can you provide a little more detail? Do you heat to 185, add FO, then let cool and cure, then reheat just to liquid and repour into final containers? 

 

It looks like I'm the lone wolf but I haven't had to wick down in 464, I've still been using a CD 12. In fact, one of my recent tests is looking like I'll need to wick up - but I'm guessing that'll be too much, this FO might just not work out. 

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