wax is left sticking to inside jars as it burns

[obsessed]

I have a reoccurring problem where wax is staying stuck to the glass jars as my soy candles melt down. I read that it was because I was under-wicking , but on several occasions  my wicks have been too big with a full melt pool and this is still happening. I have just made a 83mm (3.26")  wide candle with HTP 100XL wick as was recommended. Flame ended up really tall and smoking , full melt pool after about 3 hours . I re-lit it tonight for another 2 hours and I have about 15-20mm of wax on the sides! What am I doing wrong? Added fragrance at 160f and poured at !20f using C3 / 10% coconut wax/8% fragrance oil. I have made sooo many it is driving me crazy! ( it's getting cold in Australia so trying to pour at cooler temps to prevent wet spots).

One of the candle supply places sells a soy based oil they call "container maker" that they say fixes a lot of problems. I can't find out what it is ... but wonder if anyone has tried that to fix this problem? Even wondered if it was Soy Bean Oil? thankyou

Edited May 13, 2017 by obsessed

[kandlekrazy]

So you are getting a full melt pool and then it starts to tunnel on the relight?  Soy does take a while to catch up but usually doesn't tunnel after a full melt pool so I'm not really sure what's going on.  Usually it's the other way around, you will have wax hangup for the first burn or two and then it catches up. 

 

I'm not sure about the size wick as I don't use HTP wicks.  In that size container I use a 62C or 60C cotton core wick with C3.  You are adding your fragrance a bit late, try adding it at 175-185 but that shouldn't cause tunneling.  The recommended for C3 is 6% so I'd try that first.  Are you blending with coconut wax or coconut oil?  And are you doing that just to be able to add more fo?   If it's coconut oil, I'd just leave it out and use 6%.

[debratant]

Hello Obsessed. Is it possible to post a picture?  IMO, you should not expect a full melt pool on the first, or sometimes even the 2nd burn.

It would be helpful to see your container, and the wax that you are describing as hanging up on the sides.  

[obsessed]

8 hours ago, kandlekrazy said:

So you are getting a full melt pool and then it starts to tunnel on the relight?  Soy does take a while to catch up but usually doesn't tunnel after a full melt pool so I'm not really sure what's going on.  Usually it's the other way around, you will have wax hangup for the first burn or two and then it catches up. 

 

I'm not sure about the size wick as I don't use HTP wicks.  In that size container I use a 62C or 60C cotton core wick with C3.  You are adding your fragrance a bit late, try adding it at 175-185 but that shouldn't cause tunneling.  The recommended for C3 is 6% so I'd try that first.  Are you blending with coconut wax or coconut oil?  And are you doing that just to be able to add more fo?   If it's coconut oil, I'd just leave it out and use 6%.

Ok , so it sounds like what I have is called 'hangup' .. it's not tunnelling. I will light it again today and see if this rectifies. We only have CDN and HTP wicks here , so the choice is very limited. My friend thinks even the CDN vary between wholesalers and I think I may agree. The same size seem to vary in thickness , so it's a very confusing!  Also , the wick comparison charts I find on the net also vary greatly in the melt pool size ... I have also tested straight coconut oil 10% AND coconut wax10%. I was hoping it would improve adherence and smooth out the tops. I actually lit the fire to warm up my freezing house and wrapped folded tea towels around the large jars with pegs ... they look great LOL! Like little babies in blankets haha. I will use just the coconut wax and try 6% as you have suggested ... is C3 OK? We can also get Golden wax here , but I have heard it can be difficult. Thankyou so much for taking the time to reply

[kandlekrazy]

Yes hangup should resolve itself usually by the 3rd burn, sometimes the 2nd.  For your size container I would try 3 hour burns  also power burns where you leave it on for at least 5 hours and see how they perform.  Twist those HTP wicks before you set them so they don't burn to one side.  If you can't get a good result try the CDN's.  There was a lady here who swore by CDN wicks in C3. 

As far as C3 being difficult, all soy is difficult, you just need to work with it to find what works best in your climate and for you.  For example, I live at the beach and I know if I pour on a very high humidity day with cloud cover I'm going to have issues that I don't have on a warm sunny day.  It doesn't seem to matter if my house is the exact same temperature on both those days.  I also know if I don't get impatient and wait until the wax is getting slushy to pour it that my tops come out super smooth and I get LESS wet spots.

[Trappeur]

Hello Obsessed,

So we are all on the same page, tunneling is where the candle when lit burns straight down the middle of the candle as if the wick was undersized and just couldn't start melting outwards towards the side walls of the jar.  And "hang up" is where the candle is melted across the diameter of the candle and there is wax residue left on the sides of the glass.  And like KK said Debra said you will see wax hangup for the first couple of burns if you are doing like in 3 hour test increments.  The further down the candle that it burns, those side walls of the glass jar are going to heat up and that wax residue will start melting off the sides of the jar if the wick selected is the correct size.  

 

As mentioned add your oil about 175 farenheight degrees and stir till the oil is fully blended.  Now I pour at about 149 degrees to get some nice looking tops.

I might or might not have to do a second very thin repour across the top of the candle (just depends how the temperature is in my house).  I don't worry too much how the tops look as my concern is to get the right size wick.  You can always rectify the tops by doing a repour or like most use the heat gun.  In cold weather, my concern is getting thin hairline cracked tops which in this case after I have done the repour is lay maybe a paper towel across the top as the wax cools and then if the house is still cool, I put in boxes right away, close them and pad the sides and tops of the boxes with a heavy blanket, or something for warmth.  This is a pain in the butt and I just hate it when it comes to something like this, so I guess you just should not have a house not freezing cold to store candles (if you do it and sell wholesale as I do).  Since you are so limited for wick brands, at least the brands you have, the cdn and htp are great choices in my opinion as I use the htp's myself.  

 

C3 is a wonderful wax.....it truly is.  Like kk said all soys have their idiosyncrasies.  You just have to know that it is going to take TIME, PATIENCE AND LOTS OF TESTING.  Don't get disgusted and throw in the towel. YOU CAN master this wax BUt you have to have "patience"......If you don't have the time to be patient in this craft you might as well hang up the towel and get another craft project...I was different than most.  I never tried a half dozen different types waxes to see what I liked when I didn't know what to compare it to when I started out.  You really can't judge a wax in a couple of weeks and say I don't like it and then move on to some other type.  I would keep reading here on the board and see what everyone has to say about their journeys into the wax world and take notes.  Just because this works for this person and then someone who uses the same wax does it a different way says this is the way they do it, well we all have our own final testings and judgments to make and you are going to go through this yourself.  Posting pictures says a lot, so if you can do that, it would be great.

 

Golden wax has some great waxes and I use  464.  I found it similar as far as wicking goes compared to c3.  Others use 415 and 444.  I myself use 464 and c3.  Now in golden wax 464 I use cd's and on occasion use htps.  And don't forget.....IMPORTANT.....YOU NEED TO CURE C3 AND 464....Some oils are going to be great throwers and some not.   Just goes with all testings done.  Buy oils from reputable companies that have been in business for a long time.  Read up here and see what oils are great throwers for the wax you are using.   It makes all the world of difference when going with quality oils.  I use 6% oil.  Sometimes when you go with more it could clog the wicks or just be a big waste of money for oil by going with a larger percentage.  You just have to test.

 

This is my unbiased opinion on this topic.  WE all have our own opinions and you will come up with yours!  When you get frustrated and want' to throw in the towel......well, walk away and go do something else and take a break and come back later....if you get frustrated again...do the same thing again.  REMEMBER.....PATIENCE.....

 

Trappeur

 

[obsessed]

On 5/15/2017 at 1:29 AM, Trappeur said:

Hello Obsessed,

So we are all on the same page, tunneling is where the candle when lit burns straight down the middle of the candle as if the wick was undersized and just couldn't start melting outwards towards the side walls of the jar.  And "hang up" is where the candle is melted across the diameter of the candle and there is wax residue left on the sides of the glass.  And like KK said Debra said you will see wax hangup for the first couple of burns if you are doing like in 3 hour test increments.  The further down the candle that it burns, those side walls of the glass jar are going to heat up and that wax residue will start melting off the sides of the jar if the wick selected is the correct size.  

 

As mentioned add your oil about 175 farenheight degrees and stir till the oil is fully blended.  Now I pour at about 149 degrees to get some nice looking tops.

I might or might not have to do a second very thin repour across the top of the candle (just depends how the temperature is in my house).  I don't worry too much how the tops look as my concern is to get the right size wick.  You can always rectify the tops by doing a repour or like most use the heat gun.  In cold weather, my concern is getting thin hairline cracked tops which in this case after I have done the repour is lay maybe a paper towel across the top as the wax cools and then if the house is still cool, I put in boxes right away, close them and pad the sides and tops of the boxes with a heavy blanket, or something for warmth.  This is a pain in the butt and I just hate it when it comes to something like this, so I guess you just should not have a house not freezing cold to store candles (if you do it and sell wholesale as I do).  Since you are so limited for wick brands, at least the brands you have, the cdn and htp are great choices in my opinion as I use the htp's myself.  

 

C3 is a wonderful wax.....it truly is.  Like kk said all soys have their idiosyncrasies.  You just have to know that it is going to take TIME, PATIENCE AND LOTS OF TESTING.  Don't get disgusted and throw in the towel. YOU CAN master this wax BUt you have to have "patience"......If you don't have the time to be patient in this craft you might as well hang up the towel and get another craft project...I was different than most.  I never tried a half dozen different types waxes to see what I liked when I didn't know what to compare it to when I started out.  You really can't judge a wax in a couple of weeks and say I don't like it and then move on to some other type.  I would keep reading here on the board and see what everyone has to say about their journeys into the wax world and take notes.  Just because this works for this person and then someone who uses the same wax does it a different way says this is the way they do it, well we all have our own final testings and judgments to make and you are going to go through this yourself.  Posting pictures says a lot, so if you can do that, it would be great.

 

Golden wax has some great waxes and I use  464.  I found it similar as far as wicking goes compared to c3.  Others use 415 and 444.  I myself use 464 and c3.  Now in golden wax 464 I use cd's and on occasion use htps.  And don't forget.....IMPORTANT.....YOU NEED TO CURE C3 AND 464....Some oils are going to be great throwers and some not.   Just goes with all testings done.  Buy oils from reputable companies that have been in business for a long time.  Read up here and see what oils are great throwers for the wax you are using.   It makes all the world of difference when going with quality oils.  I use 6% oil.  Sometimes when you go with more it could clog the wicks or just be a big waste of money for oil by going with a larger percentage.  You just have to test.

 

This is my unbiased opinion on this topic.  WE all have our own opinions and you will come up with yours!  When you get frustrated and want' to throw in the towel......well, walk away and go do something else and take a break and come back later....if you get frustrated again...do the same thing again.  REMEMBER.....PATIENCE.....

 

Trappeur

 

Wow ...thankyou so much for your time and patience there. I am loving candle making , but it is a game of make and wait. I have spent sooo much money ,but hopefully I will get it right one of these days! I just read on my 2nd post ... mis-typed that I would try " just coconut wax and try 6%" ! What I meant was JUST SOY! OMG I need to get out more! LOL  I will persevere with the C3 .... do you use additives or blend your soys? I am just curious as there is so much talk about mixing stuff. Do you believe in just using straight C3 or 464 and not bothering with additives? Thanks again

 

[obsessed]

On 5/14/2017 at 7:52 AM, debratant said:

Hello Obsessed. Is it possible to post a picture?  IMO, you should not expect a full melt pool on the first, or sometimes even the 2nd burn.

It would be helpful to see your container, and the wax that you are describing as hanging up on the sides.  

Thanks Deb , I don't know how to put photos from my phone onto the computer yet ... ashamedly! So I will get my daughters to sort me out LOL I just want to get it right!!

[Gary in Canada]

On 5/14/2017 at 11:29 AM, Trappeur said:

Hello Obsessed,

So we are all on the same page, tunneling is where the candle when lit burns straight down the middle of the candle as if the wick was undersized and just couldn't start melting outwards towards the side walls of the jar.  And "hang up" is where the candle is melted across the diameter of the candle and there is wax residue left on the sides of the glass.  And like KK said Debra said you will see wax hangup for the first couple of burns if you are doing like in 3 hour test increments.  The further down the candle that it burns, those side walls of the glass jar are going to heat up and that wax residue will start melting off the sides of the jar if the wick selected is the correct size.  

 

As mentioned add your oil about 175 farenheight degrees and stir till the oil is fully blended.  Now I pour at about 149 degrees to get some nice looking tops.

I might or might not have to do a second very thin repour across the top of the candle (just depends how the temperature is in my house).  I don't worry too much how the tops look as my concern is to get the right size wick.  You can always rectify the tops by doing a repour or like most use the heat gun.  In cold weather, my concern is getting thin hairline cracked tops which in this case after I have done the repour is lay maybe a paper towel across the top as the wax cools and then if the house is still cool, I put in boxes right away, close them and pad the sides and tops of the boxes with a heavy blanket, or something for warmth.  This is a pain in the butt and I just hate it when it comes to something like this, so I guess you just should not have a house not freezing cold to store candles (if you do it and sell wholesale as I do).  Since you are so limited for wick brands, at least the brands you have, the cdn and htp are great choices in my opinion as I use the htp's myself.  

 

C3 is a wonderful wax.....it truly is.  Like kk said all soys have their idiosyncrasies.  You just have to know that it is going to take TIME, PATIENCE AND LOTS OF TESTING.  Don't get disgusted and throw in the towel. YOU CAN master this wax BUt you have to have "patience"......If you don't have the time to be patient in this craft you might as well hang up the towel and get another craft project...I was different than most.  I never tried a half dozen different types waxes to see what I liked when I didn't know what to compare it to when I started out.  You really can't judge a wax in a couple of weeks and say I don't like it and then move on to some other type.  I would keep reading here on the board and see what everyone has to say about their journeys into the wax world and take notes.  Just because this works for this person and then someone who uses the same wax does it a different way says this is the way they do it, well we all have our own final testings and judgments to make and you are going to go through this yourself.  Posting pictures says a lot, so if you can do that, it would be great.

 

Golden wax has some great waxes and I use  464.  I found it similar as far as wicking goes compared to c3.  Others use 415 and 444.  I myself use 464 and c3.  Now in golden wax 464 I use cd's and on occasion use htps.  And don't forget.....IMPORTANT.....YOU NEED TO CURE C3 AND 464....Some oils are going to be great throwers and some not.   Just goes with all testings done.  Buy oils from reputable companies that have been in business for a long time.  Read up here and see what oils are great throwers for the wax you are using.   It makes all the world of difference when going with quality oils.  I use 6% oil.  Sometimes when you go with more it could clog the wicks or just be a big waste of money for oil by going with a larger percentage.  You just have to test.

 

This is my unbiased opinion on this topic.  WE all have our own opinions and you will come up with yours!  When you get frustrated and want' to throw in the towel......well, walk away and go do something else and take a break and come back later....if you get frustrated again...do the same thing again.  REMEMBER.....PATIENCE.....

 

Trappeur

 

Great advice Trappeur...I've been trying for quite a while to "get it right" too.  When I used to buy candles, I assumed it was just a matter of melting wax add some fragrance, pour whenever into a jar with a wick (didn't realize there were so MANY).. wait for it to harden..light it and all would be wonderfull!!  I have a new respect for candle makers!  Your advice means a lot to all of us.

[Nettaboo]

Hello everyone, My name is Jenetta and I am new to candle making. I'm am having the same issue as well, where my candles are extending out, but having some wax left on the sides. I am using 8 and 10 oz jars and using Eco size 8 wicks. I have not tried any other wicks. So I'm understanding from you all that hang up wax on the sides of the jars are normally and the wax will start to come down, after a couple of burns. That is very helpful information. Also, do any of you guys use eco wicks? If so, how do they work for anyone that use them. I am using Natural 464 wax.