Soy wax additives dos & don'ts?

[Pamaroma]

Do any of you use additives in your soy wax? I use GB 464. Also is UV inhibitor necessary if you don't add color to your candles? I've wondered about vybar, stearic acid, coconut oil or any other dos or don'ts of additives in soy wax.

Edited May 1, 2017 by Pamaroma

[birdcharm]

I've been using the same wax and have not been adding anything to it. 

 

There are a couple of different vybars, but I don't know if the one that would be considered useful for a low melt point wax would be suitable or do anything for soy wax; I've read that it does not affect it and that it's a waste to try, so I have not.  If I were using a Parasoy, however, depending on the wax, I might consider using it, as I've commonly used it in other types of candles than the container candles I've been making now with soy wax.

 

My notes say:  Vybar-103 "is intended for waxes with a melt point above 130dF. and Vybar-260 for below 130dF." ... helps with uniform dye dispersion and a reduction in surface flaws.

 

The same thing, imo, with stearic acid ... in other types of waxes, I use it to make the wax more opaque.  I believe it also increases the melt point, so I don't use it with soy container wax -- the reason I switched from 444 to 464 was for the lower melt point -- I'm still testing the differences in the two waxes to see which one I truly prefer.

 

[Pamaroma]

16 hours ago, birdcharm said:

I've been using the same wax and have not been adding anything to it. 

 

There are a couple of different vybars, but I don't know if the one that would be considered useful for a low melt point wax would be suitable or do anything for soy wax; I've read that it does not affect it and that it's a waste to try, so I have not.  If I were using a Parasoy, however, depending on the wax, I might consider using it, as I've commonly used it in other types of candles than the container candles I've been making now with soy wax.

 

My notes say:  Vybar-103 "is intended for waxes with a melt point above 130dF. and Vybar-260 for below 130dF." ... helps with uniform dye dispersion and a reduction in surface flaws.

 

The same thing, imo, with stearic acid ... in other types of waxes, I use it to make the wax more opaque.  I believe it also increases the melt point, so I don't use it with soy container wax -- the reason I switched from 444 to 464 was for the lower melt point -- I'm still testing the differences in the two waxes to see which one I truly prefer.

 

Thank you so much. I don't think I'll try any in my 464 then. Thank you for sharing your notes. I'm going to jot them down with mine also.

[Trappeur]

Pam,

 

I use 464....I don't add anything to mine except the UV.   No reason to.  Now I have to use the uv as I sell to shops and most have flourescent lighting, so that is why I use that.  When making for myself, I don't add the uv.

 

Are you having problems with your 464?

 

Trappeur

[Nickie]

On 5/5/2017 at 1:06 PM, Trappeur said:

Pam,

 

I use 464....I don't add anything to mine except the UV.   No reason to.  Now I have to use the uv as I sell to shops and most have flourescent lighting, so that is why I use that.  When making for myself, I don't add the uv.

 

Are you having problems with your 464?

 

Trappeur

I'm having some issues with 464. Terrible frosting and very light hot throw. Heating to 190, Fragrance oil added at 180 and pouring around 140....is that too high still for pouring?  As for the hot throw, I'm using an oil that I know has good throw, so it must be the wax or something I'm doing with it. Any direction is appreciated!  

[TallTayl]

What container size, material And shape? What wick?

[Nickie]

They are tarts. 2 oz oval cups. 

On 5/7/2017 at 6:40 AM, TallTayl said:

What container size, material And shape? What wick?

 

[TallTayl]

6 hours ago, Nickie said:

They are tarts. 2 oz oval cups. 

 

Oh, ok. In that case, what warmer type (electric plate, bulb warmer, tea light?)

if bulb, what wattage? 

 

Have you tried just the oil on some salt to see to see if it is the fragrance, wax or warmer? 

[kandlekrazy]

Are you allowing the melts to cure before testing them?

[Nickie]

On 5/10/2017 at 8:07 AM, TallTayl said:

Oh, ok. In that case, what warmer type (electric plate, bulb warmer, tea light?)

if bulb, what wattage? 

 

Have you tried just the oil on some salt to see to see if it is the fragrance, wax or warmer? 

I have 3 warmers. All hot plates. I test in all 3 at the same time, using a full oval portion cup, which is typically 1.5-1.8 oz. one is a 20w, one is 16w other is a 14w.

 

i do test all of my oils in salt and I was using an oil with good throw in salt.  

[Trappeur]

On 5/7/2017 at 1:46 AM, Nickie said:

I'm having some issues with 464. Terrible frosting and very light hot throw. Heating to 190, Fragrance oil added at 180 and pouring around 140....is that too high still for pouring?  As for the hot throw, I'm using an oil that I know has good throw, so it must be the wax or something I'm doing with it. Any direction is appreciated!  

Pam, what fragrance is it and where from?

 

Your doing all else pretty good I would say.

 

So you have frosting?  So your coloring your wax....I can't make a suggestion there as I don't color mine.  I used to but I had frosting issues also, so I do all natural now.

 

Trappeur

[Pamaroma]

Gosh it's been a while since I've been on here, but this is by far the BEST candle educational site. I'm reading and catching up and taking notes today. Plan to make citronella candles in 16 oz tins tonight. Going to test CD and eco wicks and decide whether to single wick, double wick or triple wick. Going to be a lot of testing which equals expense so any suggestions to start with would be helpful. Think I'll also copy and paste this as a new post to see if I get recommendations.Trappeur  gave me some advice on this once and I must have stupidly not put it in my notes, I'll look and see if I can find that post too.

[wthomas57]

On 5/5/2017 at 1:06 PM, Trappeur said:

Pam,

 

I use 464....I don't add anything to mine except the UV.   No reason to.  Now I have to use the uv as I sell to shops and most have flourescent lighting, so that is why I use that.  When making for myself, I don't add the uv.

 

Are you having problems with your 464?

 

Trappeur

I do the same thing because i have candles that sit in shops. If you dont use UV , you will start seeing the effects.

Trappeur... do you notice any differences in wicking when you add UV? 

[gls]

On 5/5/2017 at 1:06 PM, Trappeur said:

I use 464....I don't add anything to mine except the UV.  

 

I am interested in adding UV to 464 container candles.   Is there a recommended amount to use (I can't find one)?   I am assuming it should be configured and weighed as a percentage of wax used?? 

 

Thanks in advanced for any help!!

[TallTayl]

15 hours ago, gls said:

 

I am interested in adding UV to 464 container candles.   Is there a recommended amount to use (I can't find one)?   I am assuming it should be configured and weighed as a percentage of wax used?? 

 

Thanks in advanced for any help!!

The bag I have suggests 1/4 teaspoon per lb of wax. 

[wthomas57]

And I see anywhere from 1/4tsp to 1/2tsp per pound.

 

That being said, I rarely see it help much overall. The candles I tend to care the most about changing colors and getting ugly are those with vanillin in them. However, the UV doesnt help that so for me... why bother. Lol

[olives]

22 minutes ago, wthomas57 said:

And I see anywhere from 1/4tsp to 1/2tsp per pound.

 

That being said, I rarely see it help much overall. The candles I tend to care the most about changing colors and getting ugly are those with vanillin in them. However, the UV doesnt help that so for me... why bother. Lol

 

I use 1/2 tsp per pound. The UV does seem to buy my candles more time before they start turning in shops, but I agree...any vanillin present will eventually rear its ugly head if they're exposed to the lighting long enough.

 

I've always done wick testing with UV added to my wax, so I'm not sure exactly how much it affects wicking, but I have to assume it does. I'd be interested to hear feedback on that.

[wthomas57]

I also always test with UV 1/2tsp per pound. Never really had a wick difference whether I use it or not. 

[Trappeur]

On 2/6/2018 at 10:57 AM, wthomas57 said:

And I see anywhere from 1/4tsp to 1/2tsp per pound.

 

That being said, I rarely see it help much overall. The candles I tend to care the most about changing colors and getting ugly are those with vanillin in them. However, the UV doesnt help that so for me... why bother. Lol

Pretty much the same for me too when adding uv to vanilla, blueberry or lemon verbena.  It might help a bit...but these scents always eventually will start turning yellow.  

And I do not dye my candles.  All this using uv at 1/2 teaspoon per pound of wax.  It is what it is...oh well.

 

Trappeur

[julie4458]

hey, I'm using 464 golden soy wax to make candles but when I light them they don't seem to last long at all they burn so fast... any suggestions on how to fix this? 

I'm only starting out so I could be doing them wrong? 

[TallTayl]

1 hour ago, julie4458 said:

hey, I'm using 464 golden soy wax to make candles but when I light them they don't seem to last long at all they burn so fast... any suggestions on how to fix this? 

I'm only starting out so I could be doing them wrong? 

What container, wick, FO, fo% and are you curing them?

[julie4458]

14 hours ago, TallTayl said:

What container, wick, FO, fo% and are you curing them?

I'm using silicone containers, 

The wicks are soy coated bought on Amazon,

I bought my fragrance oils from a candle supplies wholesalers (supplies for candles),

The FO% depends on how much was I use but I would use 5%-10% of fragrance oils 

I do cure them but because I use the silicone molds there's no lid + I take them out of the molds after a day to make use they look perfect and then let them cure more outside of the mold for another day... So 2 days overall.

[TallTayl]

1 hour ago, julie4458 said:

I'm using silicone containers, 

The wicks are soy coated bought on Amazon,

I bought my fragrance oils from a candle supplies wholesalers (supplies for candles),

The FO% depends on how much was I use but I would use 5%-10% of fragrance oils 

I do cure them but because I use the silicone molds there's no lid + I take them out of the molds after a day to make use they look perfect and then let them cure more outside of the mold for another day... So 2 days overall.

Soy wax candles need time to cure before you know how they will ultimately perform. It is not unlike curing concrete. The bonds between the wax crystals continue to harden for weeks after making the candle.

 

the size of the wick is based on the wax, fo and container size (dimensions) and material. As you continue your journey into mastering candles, you will want to choose a wick brand and size range that meets your candle variables consistently.  On Amazon and eBay we rarely know exactly what that wick is. Every single wick brand on the market is different with regard to materials used, braid type, braid tension, chemical treatments, etc. 

 

if yours is burning too fast, I would suggest using a wick series designed for veggie wax, and those that mention soy wax, such as CD, HTP, ECO, RRD, etc. so you can have repeatable results.

 

are you making containerless candles, like molded pillars or novelty shapes? 464 is designed for containers and will usually turn to a sludge as it warms up under a flame. Temperature variations (summer/winter) will exaggerate the melt. I would use a wax designed for free-standing candles such a pillar blend or beeswax. 

[julie4458]

48 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

Soy wax candles need time to cure before you know how they will ultimately perform. It is not unlike curing concrete. The bonds between the wax crystals continue to harden for weeks after making the candle.

 

the size of the wick is based on the wax, fo and container size (dimensions) and material. As you continue your journey into mastering candles, you will want to choose a wick brand and size range that meets your candle variables consistently.  On Amazon and eBay we rarely know exactly what that wick is. Every single wick brand on the market is different with regard to materials used, braid type, braid tension, chemical treatments, etc. 

 

if yours is burning too fast, I would suggest using a wick series designed for veggie wax, and those that mention soy wax, such as CD, HTP, ECO, RRD, etc. so you can have repeatable results.

 

are you making containerless candles, like molded pillars or novelty shapes? 464 is designed for containers and will usually turn to a sludge as it warms up under a flame. Temperature variations (summer/winter) will exaggerate the melt. I would use a wax designed for free-standing candles such a pillar blend or beeswax. 

I bought beeswax additives, I will 100% look into pillar wax! And new wicks thank you so much!

[TallTayl]

34 minutes ago, julie4458 said:

I bought beeswax additives, I will 100% look into pillar wax! And new wicks thank you so much!

I use only beeswax in free-standing (no container) candles.  It always works predictably.