Candle test - what is wrong?

[craftwerks]

On 11.4.2017 at 3:10 PM, Trappeur said:

Just curious Craftwerks.....what wax do you use and what size wick and style are you using?

 

Wow!  Your from Norway....I've always been in awe of the beautiful countryside you live in.....

 

Trappeur

Yes, Norway is extremely beautiful....but expensive! 

  The candle market isn't so present over here which makes it even harder to find suppliers etc.

 

I am using rapeseed wax (I believe it goes by the name Canola wax, too). When it comes to explaining what wick I am using... I get mine from a Norwegian supplier and these are the spes:SRV12, 120 MM +15 mm tab. It is a natural wick...

 

[craftwerks]

I am going to order new glasses and see if ma

33 minutes ago, craftwerks said:

Yes, Norway is extremely beautiful....but expensive! 

  The candle market isn't so present over here which makes it even harder to find suppliers etc.

 

I am using rapeseed wax (I believe it goes by the name Canola wax, too). When it comes to explaining what wick I am using... I get mine from a Norwegian supplier and these are the spes:SRV12, 120 MM +15 mm tab. It is a natural wick...

 

woops I mean to say I am using 

 

Eco2 NV- 80 mm + 15 mm tab 50 stk.

[craftwerks]

Question; I am looking at a wick that says TB8, TB9,TB10

 

What do the numbers stand for? 

Edited April 14, 2017 by craftwerks

[Trappeur]

Sorry I can't help what so ever with your wax and wicks what so ever....Never heard of those wicks and though I have heard of rapseed I have no clue what so ever.  Hopefully someone can come here and help.

 

Trappeur

[birdcharm]

I found a description of "TB" wicks ...

 

"Our Tightly Brainded (TB) wicks are made from unbleached cotton, tightly interwoven with a fine paper thread and outer jacket. These wicks are particularly suited to vegetable waxes, such as soy wax, but are also suitable for heavily coloured or scented paraffin candles."

 

... the number is the size, maybe @craftwerks you may know of a guideline of some sort, your supplier should have something to go by.

 

 

 

 

[craftwerks]

21 hours ago, Trappeur said:

Sorry I can't help what so ever with your wax and wicks what so ever....Never heard of those wicks and though I have heard of rapseed I have no clue what so ever.  Hopefully someone can come here and help.

 

Trappeur

l No problem. I know that rapeseed wax is very uncommon in the states.

[craftwerks]

18 hours ago, birdcharm said:

I found a description of "TB" wicks ...

 

"Our Tightly Brainded (TB) wicks are made from unbleached cotton, tightly interwoven with a fine paper thread and outer jacket. These wicks are particularly suited to vegetable waxes, such as soy wax, but are also suitable for heavily coloured or scented paraffin candles."

 

... the number is the size, maybe @craftwerks you may know of a guideline of some sort, your supplier should have something to go by.

 

 

 

 

I think I will do that  It is the size, but Im wondering if it is cm or mm..like id have to order several different types in order to figure out the sizes. 

Anyways, Ill contact the supplier

[wthomas57]

On 4/14/2017 at 10:36 AM, craftwerks said:

Yes, Norway is extremely beautiful....but expensive! 

  The candle market isn't so present over here which makes it even harder to find suppliers etc.

 

But makes it easier to find sales...  

[craftwerks]

On 20.4.2017 at 5:39 AM, wthomas57 said:

 

But makes it easier to find sales...  

 

Very true! There aren't many making candles as a small business, and those who do it, are not really much competition *in my opinion .

 

[Trappeur]

19 hours ago, craftwerks said:

 

Very true! There aren't many making candles as a small business, and those who do it, are not really much competition *in my opinion .

 

All the more reason for you to get a business going down the road in my eyes.......you go girl!

 

Did you ever get your wicking figured out Crftworks?

 

Trappeur

[craftwerks]

On 14.7.2017 at 3:54 PM, Trappeur said:

All the more reason for you to get a business going down the road in my eyes.......you go girl!

 

Did you ever get your wicking figured out Crftworks?

 

Trappeur

 thanks! 

I haven't completed the testing yet as I had to take a break from my candle venture. However I have ordered some new wicks so I cross my fingers that at least one of them gives a good response. 

I actually bought this amazing chalk paint and I have decided to use this paint instead of the original brown glass. Im in loveeee

[wthomas57]

36 minutes ago, craftwerks said:

 thanks! 

I haven't completed the testing yet as I had to take a break from my candle venture. However I have ordered some new wicks so I cross my fingers that at least one of them gives a good response. 

I actually bought this amazing chalk paint and I have decided to use this paint instead of the original brown glass. Im in loveeee

Nice... how pricey was that?

[Trappeur]

Wow, is that ever beautiful chalk paint!   Is that a spray?

 

Is that black or a deep navy blue?

 

Trappeur

[TallTayl]

Can you see the candle glow inside there? Neat!

[craftwerks]

On 15.7.2017 at 4:53 PM, wthomas57 said:

Nice... how pricey was that?

Not too bad...it cost me 18 dollars (in Norway I consider that normal ).

 

On 15.7.2017 at 7:09 PM, Trappeur said:

Wow, is that ever beautiful chalk paint!   Is that a spray?

 

Is that black or a deep navy blue?

 

Trappeur

It Is a spray and it is matt black. 

On 16.7.2017 at 4:37 AM, TallTayl said:

Can you see the candle glow inside there? Neat!

not sure yet  Ill let you know!

[GoldieMN]

On 3/9/2017 at 5:43 PM, Jcandleattic said:

It should be a bit warmer than luke warm. Uncomfortable, but not hot. If you need to move it a short distance you should be able too, even though it's not advised to move a burning candle, or a candle with liquid wax. 

@Jcandleattic Just happened to see this post and wondered if the jar is suppose to stay lukewarm even after an 8 or 9-hour burn.

Goldie

[Jcandleattic]

10 hours ago, GoldieMN said:

@Jcandleattic Just happened to see this post and wondered if the jar is suppose to stay lukewarm even after an 8 or 9-hour burn.

Goldie

Mine get warmer than lukewarm when doing power burns. I can touch the glass without getting burned, but it is hot. If I kept my hand on the jar for 15-20 seconds it would be very uncomfortable. I never ever try to move a candle that I'm power burning though, so I typically don't worry too much about it. 

[wthomas57]

If your candle isn't hot and uncomfortable after burning several hours then its either under wicked or your lying! Ha!

 

I'm sorry, but honestly.... it has fire in it... its going to get hot! Its normal and expected. I think the concern is if it becomes scorching hot very quickly, then you are asking for trouble.  If customers are burning their candles longer than 4 hours (or whatever your warning label indicates), then they are using it outside of recommended instructions. Your candle needs to be completely safe when used as directed. But like any product in the world, risk goes up if you use it improperly. Razors are safe if used properly too.... but not if you try and brush your teeth with them.

[TallTayl]

 In all honesty how many people who burn your candles actually sit there and time how long are candles have been lit? It is our job as makers to ensure that the product is safe under ideal an imperfect conditions. 

[wthomas57]

I'm not suggesting you dont make it as safe as possible under various conditions... but its unreasonable to expect a flame in a small container to burn for 12 hours and it not get hot. Lol. That's just ridiculous. That is NOT Reasonable expectation for any business at all. I have discussed and researched this much more than you could imagine. I have had discussions with multiple attorneys, insurance companies, and other resources. Businesses, manufactures, or what have....  can not and are not held responsible for issues like this if customers improperly use products in this manner (unless there was something else wrong which isn't what we are discussing). Its just a fact. That doesn't mean we don't try to make them safer under various conditions. But I am sorry... if a customer leaves a candle burning all night long and it melts the surface its sitting on... sorry... not the candle makers fault. Period, end of story. You know what can happen if you leave your stove or oven on for a week? Bad things can happen... its not LGs fault you left it on for a week. Or, you clog your toilet way too much and it backs up causes flooding, water damage, etc. Its not 'American Standard' or "Glacier Bay's fault. Its yours.   All products... ALL PRODUCTS... are made to work a certain way. If they are not used properly, it can lead to bad or unintended results. You are trying to convince and hold candle makers (or any business for that matter) to impossible  and unreasonable standards. And its just wrong. I used to be completely anal retentive about this issue until I stopped pretending I knew the correct answers and I reached out to those who do.

 

Make your candles as safe as you can... make them 100% safe under normal circumstances for sure! But if you have a customer binge burn a candle and forget about it for a day and it gets "too hot".... sorry, that shouldn't freak you out or concern you. 

[TallTayl]

Given how I see so many hand made candles wicked hot for fast melt pool, there is no way all makers understand or feel the same way. 

 

Yes, a container can get hot. No, it should not catch fire. Not even during a power burn. 

[wthomas57]

Totally agree with you on being wicked extra hot to get damn dear instant melt pool. That is plain dumb and yes, that could be a hazard even within the recommended burn time frame, simply because its so hot, so quick. And I also agree containers shouldn't catch fire, lol. But when or if they do (never happened to me or to any candle ive ever used) but its typically because it was burned incredibly long and there was other debri in the candle. Again, outside proper use. And we were mostly talking about the containers getting hot. Thats what the question was about. And yes... as I was responding to that question, if a candle is burned that long.. its going to get really hot. Not sure what else anyone would expect.

[TallTayl]

I have old retail candles that never got to full melt pool. They scented extremely effectively and could be burned for extended periods of time with no heat problem. 

 

when, exactly, did the full melt pool trend begin? Seems like that was a turning point.

 

i have had poorly made candles catch fire. Overscented, overwicked, overcolored, scary thing.

[wthomas57]

Yah, I have several old candles that dont get a full melt pool either and are fine for a while without getting too hot. But they eventually (for me) drowned, wouldn't relight, stopped throwing scent, left half the wax in the container by the time it was done, etc.  So in my experience, most or all of these I wouldn't consider successful candles. Ive gone through hundreds like this. Surprisingly I have had better results with larger three wicked candles getting less hot with full melt pools, most likely because of smaller wicks/flames and more space and air flow. But while better, I wouldn't say they could be burned extensively and not get super hot. I get what you are saying about not necessarily needing a full melt pool. But eventually, the wax melting needs to catch up otherwise lots of waste wax is left in the jars. And when it catches up, if its too much it drowns the wick. And that is what has always happened to candles I try that are underwicked. Or.. it tunnels leaving tons of wax. 

 

But yah, the quck full 1/2 inch melt pool... pretty dumb. It started with companies like PartyLite I think. And the customers ran with it and now expect or demand it often.

I dont think a full melt pool in reasonable amount of time is bad or dangerous. I mean... our cup of coffee or hot tea is as hot or hotter than our jars when burning. Now if it stayed that hot for 12 hours and flame kept growing, yep thats an issue.