DG17 Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 (edited) I'm pretty new to candle-making, as I just started about 1.5-2 months ago. I feel like I've already been through a lot of the learn-from-your-mistakes phase (there were lots of those) and am finally beginning to settle on a certain wax, wicks, procedures, etc. The one thing I'm still most unsure about is wick size. I know some people of here might get irritated that I'm making a post about this as it comes up a lot, but I've researched on many different websites and previous posts and I'd still feel a lot better about getting some opinions on exactly what I'm doing, instead of looking at other pictures/scenarios and trying to compare. So, here goes.I've been using Naturewax C3 soy wax and CDN wicks. I have a 4 oz glass container that I've been using that has a diameter of 2.75". I know that the general rule is 1 hour of burn time per inch diameter to reach the edges. When I use a CDN 8 with the particular FO I have pictured, the melt pool ALMOST extend to the edges after 3 hours, but not quite. The CDN 10 creates about a 1/4 inch melt pool extended all the way to the edge after 3 hours, which I read somewhere was ideal, but it has more mushrooming and seems to extend out too fast - almost all the way to edges after just 2 hours. Basically, I'm still not sure which one is better and I could really benefit from some opinions from more experienced people! Thanks in advance. I'm leaning towards the CDN 10 since it's been almost 4 hours and the 8 still doesn't have a fully extended melt pool.Does anyone know how to add pictures to this without having a URL? Edited July 26, 2015 by DG17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DG17 Posted July 26, 2015 Author Share Posted July 26, 2015 The site won't let me upload my photos Today is not my day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gclarke Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Try doing a few different burns with both candles. The only way to tell is by doing multiple burns to the end of the candle. The candle will burn differently as if gets toward the bottom and any hang-up (what is left on the sides) might disappear with the cdn 8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DG17 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 Thanks! I've been doing more test burns with the same candles now, before I was a little too impatient! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Hello DGOh yes, please get some pictures up.There might be an easier way to bring up pictures that others will have better choices than me, but I use photo bucket. After you get your picture uploaded in photobucket, click on the right hand side that gives you different options of uploading to Craftserver, click on "image" and then paste it into Craftserver. If you still can't figure out how to get the picture up, you can email me your picture and I'll get it up for you. The difference between a cd and cdn wickis is the primed solution on the wicks. Generally the cdn's burn out about an inch further than the cd'. What is the style name of the jar that you are using? That would help. In the c3 I use the cd's and also have wonderful luck with the htps. Trappeur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 I think you go into that My Media icon on top of the thread when you're posting and it allows you to add attachments. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 I think you go into that My Media icon on top of the thread when you're posting and it allows you to add attachments.Oh wow.....I didn't know that....I'll have to try that.... Trappeur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 (edited) Here is a picture of a 1 pour top. I just made 2 candles yesterday, one was in the c3 and 1 in 464. This is the c3....so it can be done...it's just getting the right pour temperature....so you will have to play with it because everyone's will be different. By the way for those who haven't tried this fragrance.....Pumpkin Pecan Waffles from Tennessee candle I poured into this crystal piece. ...all I can sat is this is the most awesome true fragrance I've come across in a long long time!!!!I did a 2 week cure in another jar, the 21oz status with a cd16 and was awesome........This is a hands down winner...I am sooo in love with this fragrance. For anyone wanting to try it,,,,,,,you won't be disappointed! Trappeur Edited July 27, 2015 by Trappeur 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DG17 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 (edited) Unfortunately the My Media button doesn't work for me on here because it won't allow me to upload any pictures to my gallery to then select from. Whenever I select an image to upload, it tells me there's not room left even though it says the data is unlimited and I haven't used any! Oh well, I tried the photo bucket method so hopefully this works! Trappeur, that top looks great! I've had one really perfect bath with the C3 so far, but usually I get the faintest slight sink-hole type deal going on every time. It really just looks like a faint circular line around the top, but it's obviously not ideal. Still trying to figure out what I did differently in the better batch! I've been pouring around 160, is yours on the higher end as well? And that FO sounds lovely, I've been going a little sample crazy at the moment but I think I need to start making some of my money back if I'm going to keep it up! The 4 oz jar that I've been using is just called "4 oz Canning Jar, Regular Mouth." The 8 oz jar I've been using is the Square Mason, but these photos are of the 4 oz. CDN 10, 3 hours: CDN 8, 3 hours: To recap, the diameter of the jar is 2.75". The CDN 8 melt pool still didn't fully reach the sides after 4 hours on the first burn. The CDN 10 actually took longer than 3 hours to do so as well on its the second burn. Edited July 27, 2015 by DG17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Those pictures are absolutely beautiful! What system did you use? The 10 is too deep for my liking....the 8 is much better. You want hang up for the first couple of burns as it will catch up the lower the wax gets and don't forget to not do the next testing till the wax is completely hardenend. Like the next day....It WILL make a difference. And do too the testing all the way to end of the jar on both of these wicks.... Wow, using that size smaller wick is amazing to me. I wind up using bigger wicks in the cd's when I have done that jar - like a cd18....hmmmm...very interesting. Now what fragrance is it and how long has the candle cured b/4 you even started burning it And I usually pour around that ......generally a little less. Those surface cracks sound like cooling a little too fast.....but keep on going....get your wick sizing down first...you can critique the cracks as you go along. Great job! Trappeur Maybe others can chime in here too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DG17 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 (edited) I actually just took the pictures on my iPhone and then emailed them to myself and uploaded them on Photobucket. I'm happily surprised that they came out so well! As for the surface cracks, I've been experimenting with heating my jars for different periods of time before pouring. It can be a bit of a struggle to find the perfect balance of not too hot but not too cool! And for the wicks, I guess I was mostly concerned that people may not burn them long enough to avoid hang-up on the first burn which I heard can lead to issues in subsequent burns. Over 4 hours for a 2.75" jar seemed long to me! But then again, I know next to nothing about the technical things still, which is why I'm here for opinions. I'm glad you think the CDN 8 is better though, as that's what I've mostly been using so far. I'll keep burning these two though and see how things change as they go along. Thanks so much for your input! Edited July 27, 2015 by DG17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Your very welcome Dg, Yep, I often wonder about that too with people not burning them long enough and then having too much hangup. But, when your selling to the public (shops) such as I, safety is #1. Geesh, I have these nightmares of a candle burning so friggin hot because of a too big a wick and then the jar possibly cracking, exploding, someone burning their hands on the jar, some kid burning themself....the list goes on...you know what I mean? Just can't take the chance and yet soooooo many candle companies of candles I have bought they are torches.....and hot jars to beat the band! omg..... How long do you let your candles cure for b/4 burning? That will make a diifference too. I learned that here when I did some testings and Old Glory explained why..... I wish others would come here and post their thoughts because there are so many more beautiful experienced chandlers that you learn so much from as I have. My way is what has worked for me and been proven successful for me so I can only offer my suggestions as they are only my findings. As for heating the jars......lol.....I have never done that...or put cardboard over candles....etc, etc....And why? I just don't have the patience and don't plan on doing it either....lol...Now so many do.... And it does work. But I will say in the winter when it is cold in my cabin, I will put down a towel on top of my tile counter top to aide in the candle cooling slower. As for wet spots.....well I went to all natural candles years back and never looked back. And I do get wet spots periodically but it doesn't bother me what so ever...It may not be so pretty on some of them, but some things you just have to embrace and this is one of them. Geesh, look at candles in shops.....big time wet spots, but I don't think people even look at them in all honesty. They just want the smell and a good looking candle. Trappeur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DG17 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 Trappeur, I definitely have to agree with you on the safety side of things! I'll just keep on chugging along with my testing, but I'm leaning more towards ticking with the 8's for sure. I feel much better now that I've gotten some input! As for curing, I've been a bad girl in that category... I get impatient and burn the testers after 4-5 days, but I know I should wait more like 2 weeks. I honestly thought it mostly just affected scent throw, so I didn't think it would matter too much for testing wick size. Good to know, thanks! I think I'll make some more tonight and try to control myself for 2 weeks before burning them. I'm learning that testing in the beginning stages is never-ending... And the whole heating jars thing... I never did that until I did a batch that had really bad frosting all along the jar. I hadn't run into that problem even in a mild form before, so I wasn't sure what the issue was but I read heating the jars could help with that (and maybe other things) so I decided to give it a try. So far no more frosting with the same FO/dye combo that gave me the problem the first time, so I was happy with that. It hasn't helped significantly with the cracking though, but maybe I'm still just working through finding the best temp for the jars. It's hard to say how much it's actually helped right now, but at this point I figured I'm willing to try it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 As someone who has had a glass jar catch fire and explode sending shards feet away from the base, I wick more conservatively than most typically suggest. When I see FB groups preach that the MP must reach the edges within the first hour or two regardless of the wax or container I cringe... From those pics, I would choose the smaller wick at this time. The first one is pretty deep on the first burn. As others have written, let it sit for a week or two before lighting. The difference is sometimes dramatic. Burn the testers all the way to the end extinguishing between measured burns. If all seems OK, make another, cure it and then prepare for a powerburn. I can't count how many people have told me their great intentions timing candle burns in their homes, but then they got distracted and forgot, or fell asleep allowing the candles to burn all day... No way I want a fire on my conscience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DG17 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 TallTayl, Thanks for the tips! I have yet to do a power burn, so when I've burned these down incrementally I'll do that next - maybe in a sink haha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DG17 Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 (edited) Update: Only the second burn but it's still taking 6+ hours in a 2.75" diam jar for the CDN 8's to get a melt pool that extends to all sides (2 different FOs). Does that still seem better than the 10's? Edited July 28, 2015 by DG17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 hmmmm...possibly....can you take some pictures? How bout the 10? Are you still testing that wick? Trappeur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Those circular lines that are closer to the wick with C3 are a pita. I've found ambient temperature has alot to do with it while cooling. I've been able to almost eliminate them by doing the following, hope it helps for you: Making sure room temp is at least 70 or covering with a box while coolingPouring cooler, wait until the wax is pretty cloudy to pourTry to pour down the wick instead of close to the jar wall.PRAY that the soy fairies don't mess with you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisR Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Update: Only the second burn but it's still taking 6+ hours in a 2.75" diam jar for the CDN 8's to get a melt pool that extends to all sides (2 different FOs). Does that still seem better than the 10's? You can't judge the burn till you reach the bottom half of the candle, as it will get much hotter the further down it burns. Don't worry about it now, just burn it all the way down and take notes. If the CDN 10 reached a full MP on the first burn, you could very possibly have a way too hot jar near the bottom. As TallTayl said exploding glass jars are VERY dangerous, do happen more than we think and no chandler wants that to happen. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DG17 Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the input everyone! You were right about it burning hotter as it goes along... the CDN 8 is working great in the other FO (not the one used in the candles pictured above). With the FO pictured, both the 8 and the 10 have flopped... Both have created weird hang-up on the sides and the flame became super tiny. Is anyone familiar with this? Is the wick drowning in the MP somehow? I'm not sure if it's the FO or what because in the other FO the CDN 8 has been working beautifully. CDN 10: CDN 8: This pic is after 4 hours of burning too. Edited July 29, 2015 by DG17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DG17 Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 And Kandlekrazy,I tried the lower pouring temp (waiting until it was starting to cloud) for a while but it actually made the pita situation worse for me, so I switched to the higher pour temp suggested by the manufacturer for C3. Weird how things work differently for everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DG17 Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 And Kandlekrazy,I tried the lower pouring temp (waiting until it was starting to cloud) for a while but it actually made the pita situation worse for me, so I switched to the higher pour temp suggested by the manufacturer for C3. Weird how things work differently for everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Well the 8 and 10 didn't work for that oil....what was the scent anyway? Must be a wicker upper..... Trappeur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DG17 Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 CS Cinnamon Chai. I really like the scent, it's just giving me some grief in the wicking department! You think I should try 12's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Yes, I was going to suggest that trying a cdn12. That scent is on my list to try....sounds awesome.. Trappeur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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