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Vybar and Soy?


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Anyone ever try Vybar 260 and soy? I was thinking of trying it with some 415 just to see how it would come out...

I've mastered my own blend (parasoy) which took years, and I love my paraffin, but, like many of you I continue to test, test, test. lol I think it's in my nature to never be satisfied! Geesh, I can't believe I'm crossing over to the dark side....straight soy here I come!

 

So should I leave the vybar out or no?

 

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Anyone ever try Vybar 260 and soy? I was thinking of trying it with some 415 just to see how it would come out...

I've mastered my own blend (parasoy) which took years, and I love my paraffin, but, like many of you I continue to test, test, test. lol I think it's in my nature to never be satisfied! Geesh, I can't believe I'm crossing over to the dark side....straight soy here I come!

 

So should I leave the vybar out or no?

 

I'm not generally one to discourage experimentation, but it might not be worth it. Lots of people have tried this. I can't remember exactly what happens, but that's because it isn't anything useful. If you feel like doing it though, post a pic!

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Can't remember my 415 testing but I use C3 soy and add Universal soy additive, seems to make C3 wax behave a little better.  Soy has some issues but

if you want to dive in I wouldn't try a bunch of stuff...most of it doesn't help and just adds cost and testing time.  Maybe someone that uses 415 will answer for you.

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The dark side.....415 is the end of the brilliant bedazzled rainbow- lol

I have not tried it so I can't comment but the research I did I don't think it would be of any use - USA has a wonderful use in 415 and beeswax does well also but I prefer the USA

415 if is very finicky on looks but the throw is amazing straight- I chose to add USA so I would not have to spend all day tempering the stuff on top of waiting forever for the cool pour temp....I don't think it compromised the throw much but there is a difference from just using plain old 415 straight up

Edited by moonshine
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I chose to add USA so I would not have to spend all day tempering the stuff on top of waiting forever for the cool pour temp....I don't think it compromised the throw much but there is a difference from just using plain old 415 straight up

 

I need to jump in here because it sounds like you are thinking of that loony technique that someone used to spread around the board. Let me just say, that's not tempering and it does not accomplish the slightest thing. Every time you get the wax hot and fully melted, you are starting from scratch. Doing that twice only kills time. If it seems to work, what you did right is whatever came after the second heat-up. The wax has no memory of anything before that.

 

Not only is it physically impossible for this technique to accomplish anything, but the whole idea of it seems made up. I've never found the source of it except that one person. It might be some terrible misunderstanding of something out of chocolate-making.

 

However, even though that's not it, tempering is totally real. Without it you wouldn't have those smooth creamy vegetable shortenings and margarines at the supermarket. Or at least it would go grainy pretty quick if it didn't find its environment agreeable.

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I'm not going to lie and say understand the whole theory "technique" tempering or not but when I started with 415 this was my experience and I have no clue why or what...it just was

I would heat to 185- add my FO and pour at 100- all candles no matter the FO would be rough and crater topped and full of wet spots

If I heated to 185- let cool to 120 and reheat to 185 - add FO and pour at 100 I had baby butt smooth tops and no wet spots- all jars prepared the same

Then I played with USA and I get the same result eliminating the need to cool and reheat.....

I do not know if that process is really "tempering" it is a term I did read on here but whatever it was did fix my ugly issues but it was way to time consuming so I went with the USA

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I do not know if that process is really "tempering" it is a term I did read on here but whatever it was did fix my ugly issues but it was way to time consuming so I went with the USA

 

Yeah that process came from one person who didn't have a clue. Every time you heat up the wax to 180, you're starting over again. Melting and cooling it twice does exactly nothing. I'm gonna mention that for the record when it comes up. I know you aren't doing it, but maybe others still are.

 

What gave you good results is whatever you did the second time you cooled and poured it. Nothing prior to melting the wax matters. Melting to 180 is like hitting the reboot button, so the wax completely "forgets" anything that happened before that. I promise.

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Guest OldGlory

Tempering as I know it:

After your soy cools and forms tiny crystals (still a thick liquid), you heat it up (I heat it up slowly), stirring, until the crystals are smoothed out. Pour. That's when I get the prettiest creamy tops. Since I pour into tins, I pour at whatever temperature about 3/4 of the way full, then set aside a small amount of wax to fill.That is the wax I "temper".

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I cannot speak to VyBar - but our Polyboost polymer (virtually identical) - has been used by our customers with soy blends that have particularly difficult fragrances (i.e. bleed).  Seems to work just fine.  Since Polyboost is a wax crystal modifier - there should be not a problem using it in an all Veggie product.  However, please note that it is likely it will not act in the same way as candles made with paraffin wax(es),  I don't it would be any different using Vybar.  HTH...

Edited by Brad Ford
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I wish I could be more helpful, but at the moment we don't have any resellers for this product (working on that)-but I would be happy to get you a sample you want to experiment.

 

Well hi Brad! Do you still have those 2 narrow-cut paraffins -- I think they were 135W and 145W?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm not going to lie and say understand the whole theory "technique" tempering or not but when I started with 415 this was my experience and I have no clue why or what...it just was

I would heat to 185- add my FO and pour at 100- all candles no matter the FO would be rough and crater topped and full of wet spots

If I heated to 185- let cool to 120 and reheat to 185 - add FO and pour at 100 I had baby butt smooth tops and no wet spots- all jars prepared the same

Then I played with USA and I get the same result eliminating the need to cool and reheat.....

I do not know if that process is really "tempering" it is a term I did read on here but whatever it was did fix my ugly issues but it was way to time consuming so I went with the USA

 

I can say from my experience with Moonshine's candles that she makes a kick a$$ soy candle! No frosting or wet spots. Looks ultra creamy and the throw is fantastic! Whatever you are doing Moonshine keep it up!

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