WICK QUESTIONS

[Guest]

Sorry for starting new topics, but I don't think I've seen this addressed:  when choosing a wick, i have noticed there is overlap with sizes.

 

For example:

CD 8 - for 2.5-3"

CD 10 - for 3"-3.5"

CD 12 - for 3"-3.75"

CD 14 - for 3.25-3.75"

 

So thats 3 diff. wicks for a 3" size opening.  So how does anyone decide which size?  I know a lot depends on the wax, which I am now started using 6006.  The CD 12 is too big for the tins I am using with 3" opening, so now that cuts it down to the CD 8 & 10, but tested with no fragrance, & there wasn't much difference in those 2 wicks, but what will happen when i add fragrance, and possibly color? Needing the bigger?  Also, if I decide to use different containers - in around 3.25" - 3.5",  do all testing all over again? I really loved the cubed jars, but I've only seen them on Peak's site (and Dollar Tree) and they are I believe 3.25".  I used the CD 12 with the hassle free, fo, and color, and I only burned one of those so far and its good, but its more soy thatn parrafin.

 

Thank you, all.

[Jcandleattic]

Yes, when changing any variable in a candle (new FO, color, jar - especially jar, wax, etc.) you have to start all over with testing. Once you get more familiar with your wax and how it performs, it gets easier to choose the right wick the first time or two, but you still need to do that test to make sure. 

 

Also you need to burn the candle all the way down to the very end to know for sure if you have the right wick, then you do power burns, burn at different times, etc., it's an exhausting task, but must be performed. 

 

Testing is one of those necessary evils that must be done to have the best possible candle you can make. 

 

ETA: More info - 

 

I meant to add that most wick suppliers/manufactures use those charts as just general guidelines to help you get started. They can no more tell you exactly which wick to use than anyone else. They (like us here) can help guide you, but the proof will be in the testing, and that's what will determine the wick you ultimately decide to use. 

Edited February 22, 2015 by Jcandleattic

[Guest]

Thank you, Jcandleatic, and everyone else for help.

[Candybee]

You've got the idea when it comes to selecting a wick size to test. Those are the sizes I would have picked for your container. The test burn will be to determine which wick burns best in the whole jar. You will often find that a wick behaves different in the second half of the jar than it does in the first.  So you always want to test burn down to the end of the jar. Remember that at the jar bottom there is less oxygen so the flame will behave different than it does at the top or even the middle of the jar.

 

Also, not all jars are straight sided. Some like the jelly jar are wider at the top and smaller at the bottom. So I often find I have to wick for the bottom burn of the jar. So a smaller size may be better than using one that is suggested for the top part.

 

Jars can also be round, tall, skinny, wide, etc. So jar size and shape are things to consider when selecting a wick.

Edited February 22, 2015 by Candybee

[Guest]

Thank you, Candybee!  I'm getting there...............I've been reading up so much on wicks. I only really want to use the tins and I want to get those cubed jars - I'll have to order them & pay shipping - not every supplier has them.  They are sooooo sleek and contemporary looking - sophisticated.  Neither c&s nor Candlewic has a nice, square 11 oz. jar like this.

 

So - 1 wax, 2 containers, and the right wick for each.  Trying to keep it simple.  trying.

 

Also - I read somewhere - possibly here - i can't remember anymore - for a blend with higher parrafin content, like the 6006, which I think is 70 para/ 30 soy, approx, do you wick DOWN? and with more soy, or 100% soy, you need a larger wick?  

 

Example: I found I need a smaller wick for the 6006 in 8 oz. tins - the CD 8 or CD 10

 

 

 

sorry. I'm burned out tonight. no pun intended.

[crvella]

One thing that got me in the beginning was that going up a size doesn't necessarily mean you will get a proportionate result.  I.e  If an 8 is ever so slightly too small, a 10 wont necessarily be your given wick; it might be a 12.  

 

Let me give you an example.

 

In my 3" Jars; I have a 'harder to burn' fragrance that requires me to wick up from a CDN 8.  In my testing, I find a 10 was waay too big, and that a 12 was in between the CDN 8 and the CDN 10.  The 10 produced massive mushrooming, got loads hotter and burnt through the candle quicker than the 12.  So I had to go up 2 sizes to get an ever so slightly bigger melt.

 

In the votives, I typically use a CDN 6 for most fragrances.  One of the fragrances I had was causing the CDN 6 to burn hotter than I'd liked; so I went to a 5 and found the 5 burnt even hotter than the 6; and had to reduce to a CDN 4 in the votive.

 

So keep in mind than the wick size is not always proportionate to the burn.

[Guest]

and just when I thought i was figuring this all out.

 

Thanks crvella, lol.  I did read that 'heavier' frangrances require 'wicking up'.  (see - even learnin' the 'lingo'!!)  But how do i tell what frangrances are heavier than others? I don't like bakery/food scents, and I'm pretty sure those are 'heavier' frangrances, but I love herbals, florals, water scents, perfume scents, ooohh....soooo many - and surely some of thos are heavier so I guess I 'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

[Guest OldGlory]

Again, the only way to know for sure is to test for yourself. Sometimes FOs that contain vanilla are heavier, as are some bakery FOs, BUT not all. So, back to the testing of each FO in your wax. It's exhausting, we've all done it.

[crvella]

My partner and I have been at it for 18 months and only just ready to put stuff to market; but are still learning something new every day 8-)

[Guest]

all this testing blows chunks. but I'm not giving up just yet.

 

One thing I will say - I wished I could've gotten great hot throw with the soy 464 - every single candle I made with that wax turned out beautiful! Burned perfect! Excellent cold throw! So easy to work with!  I never had any issues with it like some others have experienced.  The only thing I did was switch wicks from Eco to CD12. Even in the cubed jars I did - elsewhere I read that they should be double-wicked.  I don't want to double-wick ANYTHING.  I used ONE CD 12 wick, & it burned lovely - perfect. I still have some sitting up in a cabinet that I poured back in January.  I am hoping all works out the way I want with this 6006 wax hot throw wise.

[Candybee]

I don't know if this will help you or make you depressed but when I am working with a new wax it takes me about a year to get a decent candle burn and about 2 yrs of working with the wax to make a really great candle worthy of my company selling it. Candlemaking can take a buttload of patience and experience that takes its own time.

[Guest]

@Candybee:  No, didn't make me depressed.  I fully expect for this to take a while before I get things down pat.  I'm sticking to only 2 containers, one wax, and so far have a good handle on what wicks def. WON'T work.  I don't mind all the time it may take because its a nice hobby, keeps me occupied during my idle time - my boyfriend travles a lot for business, so its nice to be productive doing something enjoyable.  I don't ever plan on making a business out of it. 

 

It most def. is a test of patience, though, and a money-sucker, but once I get my system down, it will be worth it. to me, at least.

[Candybee]

Well said! I hear you about the expense. Its not exactly a cheap hobby but it sure is challenging and fun!

[Guest]

lol, I know - had I known what all was involved before I started this venture, I well may not have even attempted it. I'm glad I was ignorant enough to go into blind, otherwise I would not know how much I love and enjoy it, even though I have only achieved limited success in making a good scented candle.  They sure do look good, though! And many of them are fragrant when lit, just more on the weak side.  I have higher hopes for the 6006 for some reason. 

[Guest]

ANOTHER wick question:

 

I;ve been reading some on the zinc wicks & a lot of others having really great success using them in the 6006.  my question:  do zinc wicks burn hotter or cooler than a CD?? 

 

I've read conflicting info.  I don't know if I will try - will wait to see how the CD's will perform.  I mainly want to know because of my fear of glass containers getting too hot. so if zinc burns cooler, then I'd want to try in the glass cubes.

 

THANKS ALL!

[Scented]

Zincs are hotter, but here's the thing about wicks and learning .... 

Try them all out (or at least more than just the CD) so that you understand what they do and which burns better for your application. Sometimes you may need a zinc instead of a CD or LX or FB or Cotton etc. When you have the time ... just test another one out too. It's kind of like you found what works, now prove that what works is really the best. Like make it go against say two other wicks that just really want to try out. Watch the performance. You might find yourself liking how something else works in your application ... or you might not.

[Jcandleattic]

I agree with Scented. Try many different types of wicks until you are completely happy with one. 

What works for other's applications may not work as well in yours, and the only way you will know that is by testing. You may hit on one that you never thought to use and it will be the best you've tried for your candles. 

[Candybee]

I found zincs burn much cooler than CDs. Its one of the reasons I selected zincs over CDs. I wanted the glass container to be cool to the touch and time after time zincs passed the test. CDs are great wicks but I just didn't like the way they curled and made the container hot to the touch on one side.

 

But that is my experience and yours may be different with a different wax and container combo.

[Guest]

Thanks Candybee for your experience & comparison of the two. Most of you know my fear of breaking glass, so that comparison between the zincs and the CD's that I actually use, was important to me, even though I know I may experience different results than other people.

 

I asked the question because if it burns hotter than the cd's I am currently using, I don't want to even try it, don't even want to test it - even if it might be the better choice.  For me, its a matter of safety.

 

So far I like the CD wicks with this wax - and also have noticed from the first time I used them that annoying curling.  I liked them with the other waxes as well - burn really nice.  The only other wicks I tried was the Eco, which I did not like at all. 

 

I will get a starter pack of zincs to try with the glass containers, and test them in the tins as well. 

 

Thanks all: I understand the importance of testng wicks, and not everyone has the same results.  I just wanted to know if the zincs burned hotter or cooler than the cd's.  

 

On another note:  I poured my first SCENTED candles today using the 6006, CD 10 wicks in the 8 oz. tins, using Peak's Rose Bouquet fo., 1 oz./pp, no color.   I like this fo somewhat - def. not my favorite - needs to be mixed with something else, but I'll figure that out later. I just didn't want to use any of my #1 fav fo's, lol. I heated the tins just slightly, as I did when I was wick testing,  and put them in the oven so they cool slowly.  This worked really well when I made the testers without fo, and I didn't get any pitting, sinking, or holes near the wick.  really nice smooth tops.

 

One part of this candle making I've mastered is pouring a great looking candle, lol - every single candle I ever made came out really nice - never any aesthetic issues at all. Just need that great hot throw I've been yearning for.

[Candybee]

Getting wicks right is one thing... now the fragrance testing can be another one of those hair pullers!

[Guest]

Oh, Candybee.....you're funny.  Good thing I have a lot of hair.

 

Well, I think I've pretty much settled on the wax I want, which is what I originally wanted anyway before the c&s lady talked me out of it....I am going to MAKE this wax work!!!

 

I don't have a lock on wicks completely, but believe I;m on the right path, figuring things out, know what WONT' work, and learning about heavier & lighter fo's

 

I understand the container factor and can pretty much narrow down what wicks to use with what containers, and, as said above, figure in which fo's will work best with the wax AND wick combo, and if I get it wrong the first time, I am pretty confident I'll get it the second time

 

If I get confident enough, I just may try other glass containers - but I don't need to decide that just yet.  I like the thickness of the ball mason jars, but I am just not into the country or rustic look. Love the status jars, but the wall of the glass seems too thin.

 

Ummm....what else....

 

Oh yeah - I still want to experiment with the 4633 paraffin and DO ALL TESTING OVER AGAIN, LOL. BUT....not until I make great HT candles with this wax first. 

 

 I still really really want to try the 4633.

 

:rockon: :rockon:

[Guest]

Got 2 sizes of the zinc wicks and can't wait to try & see how they do. I also got a few of the larger tins - 16oz. just to make things more complicated for myself.  I was looking at more of the glass containers and I *think* I may be comfortable with the 10oz. apothocary, but that's down the road.

 

I really like the 6006 though, and the CD wicks do work well with it, but I just need to try these zincs. And I was mistaken - its Candle Science who has the cubes I like, not Peaks - I'm just always creepin' on Peaks site the most, lol.

 

When I was on the wicksunlimited site a couple of weeks ago, it did say the zincs burned cooler, but wax supplier sites: some state they burn hotter, some sites say cooler.  So, hence the confusion.

 

Thanks again to everyone for all your helpful tips and advice - very much appreciated!!

[Candybee]

When in doubt follow the manufacturers advice on their product. Not all suppliers get their info right. I have seen it again and again. It often confuses people struggling to learn how to use a product correctly and efficiently.

[Guest]

That's one of the things that is troubling - that a supplier would not get info right. You'd think they would make darn sure they knew the products they sell inside & out

[Flicker]

Zincs are hotter, but here's the thing about wicks and learning .... 

Try them all out (or at least more than just the CD) so that you understand what they do and which burns better for your application. Sometimes you may need a zinc instead of a CD or LX or FB or Cotton etc. When you have the time ... just test another one out too. It's kind of like you found what works, now prove that what works is really the best. Like make it go against say two other wicks that just really want to try out. Watch the performance. You might find yourself liking how something else works in your application ... or you might not.

Zinc is actually far cooler than a CD. The CD wicks are non directional cotton braid. In terms of how hot wicks burn, at the coolest are Hemp, then zinc, then cotton then paper which is the hottest. The zinc are not recommended in soy because of the cool burning properties. Tin (no longer available in the US) were hotter than cotton.