IGI 6006 wicking issues

[renaymarie]

I have been using 6006 for over a year now and I love this wax. I have had great set ups with the cd wicks I've been using. I however would like to switch to the LX variety as i like their burn characteristics better and I would like to get my burn times extended some.

 

I'm testing 80% 6006 with 20% 4625, 1.2 oz of FO, 4 drops of liquid dye, I have LX 20, 21 and 22. I only let the tins cure about 24 hours before testing.

 

1. How much cure time should I allow for with the 6006 wax? I have not been able to find anything that is definitive on what is recommended. It's my understanding that it should need some cure time due to the soy portion but what would be a good guide to follow? I have seen and tried everything from 24 hours to two weeks, which IMO didn't make much if any difference. I go with at least 48 hours at this time, unless anyone can give me some more info.

 

2. I am also not noticing the HT as much with this combination. That's not to say that I don't have a good case of candle nose going on. I know this scent throws awesome in straight 6006, would the 20% of 4625 be enough to kill my HT? They still smell great cold.

 

At this point in my first light, on my burn test, I'm liking the LX 20 so far. I'll attach pictures as soon as I can get them sized down.

[chuck_35550]

I'm a little puzzled over why you would fix something that isn't broken. Lots of chandlers would love to say their candles throw awesome. The 4625 is a paraffin pillar/votive blend with a 6% fo load. The usual recommendation is to up the soy not the paraffin but who knows what might work. I used to use LX wicks and have a drawer full of them but prefer cd or cdn wicking with just about everything. I fell out of love with LX because its so limp in hot wax. I mean, yeah the wick gets clipped but cds are easier to wick and the burn is nice and clean. If you want to extend burn time, then I would recommend a zinc. Zincs are the coolest burning wicks and thus you wouldn't burn quite as quickly as you would with a hotter wick like the cd. Frankly, I'd stay with what works and save yourself some time and money.

Steve

[mzphee]

^{I agree with Chuck ...I use 6006 and im not changing a thing unless need be...lmbo}

[renaymarie]

Thanks for the reply Steve and mzphee!

 

My thought process behind adding the 4625 was to increase my burn time a little, rather than add something like vybar or stearic and risk locking my fragrance. Adding it did do that, but also decreased my HT, still better than some I've tried, but not as good as the straight 6006. I have to agree, it wasn't really broken.

I currently use the CD wicks and they work great, just not impressed with the behavior of this wick, with the scents I like. I really like the LX as it's not a mushroomer for me. I'm not using a high fragrance load(1:1) so I'm at a loss as to what the mushrooming is coming from, a CD 60 in a 2 1/2 diameter tin, should be perfectly fine.

I also wanted to come up with something that would pop out of a warmer easily, as you know 6006 isn't coming out without a fight! lol No one complains, because the throw is worth it, but I'd like my customers to not have to "work" at changing scents in the warmer. I guess I need to change over to a straight paraffin for my tarts or head back to the drawing board. Unless either of you have suggestions for me to test out?

Thank you so much for all the insight you give in this forum! It's great to have a source of knowledge to draw from on this journey!

[renaymarie]

Another quick question about the curing time... What do you guys recommend? As I said before I have tried longer cure times and short ones, but I'm not able to discern a noticeable difference with the longer times. What are your thoughts?

[chuck_35550]

I hate to sound like a broken record but 85% 6006 and 15% of any soy is a great formula IMHO. Poured at about 185 degrees into room temp jars with a 6 or 7% fo load is a pretty good formulation, as far as jar wall adhesion and ct/ht. I was recently in Henderson, Tennessee and had a chance to look at what the shops were carrying. Mostly French triple milled soap (Provence) and very high end candles. Aside from the slick packaging, the purity of the fragrance was amazing. The fragrance on the cold throw is simple and recognizable; its not until you light the candle that the other notes begin to add complexity and depth to the overall effect desired by the perfumist. I can only imagine that a quality fragrance oil will only get better with age, as in deepen but not necessarily strengthen. I have candles that are quite old and there is not much difference in the cold throw but the burn is amazing. You could always use the old trick of placing a little fragrance oil on top of the candle for a strong first impression but its the burn that brings a customer back. I normally use one ounce of fragrance oil in 15 oz of wax and get a great result on most tested oils. HTH

Steve

[Ray]

I have been using 6006 for over a year now and I love this wax. I have had great set ups with the cd wicks I've been using. I however would like to switch to the LX variety as i like their burn characteristics better and I would like to get my burn times extended some.

 

I'm testing 80% 6006 with 20% 4625, 1.2 oz of FO, 4 drops of liquid dye, I have LX 20, 21 and 22. I only let the tins cure about 24 hours before testing.

 

1. How much cure time should I allow for with the 6006 wax? I have not been able to find anything that is definitive on what is recommended. It's my understanding that it should need some cure time due to the soy portion but what would be a good guide to follow? I have seen and tried everything from 24 hours to two weeks, which IMO didn't make much if any difference. I go with at least 48 hours at this time, unless anyone can give me some more info.

 

2. I am also not noticing the HT as much with this combination. That's not to say that I don't have a good case of candle nose going on. I know this scent throws awesome in straight 6006, would the 20% of 4625 be enough to kill my HT? They still smell great cold.

 

At this point in my first light, on my burn test, I'm liking the LX 20 so far. I'll attach pictures as soon as I can get them sized down.

 

I started out a little over a month ago using 6006. After a couple days of letting it cure I wasn't getting a good hot throw. Since then I have tried 4630...I was getting a hard time getting some of the oils to blend with this wax. Tried CBL129 and the wax was just way too transparent inside the jar once cooled, although I did get a good hot throw with a couple scents after only 24 hours...other scents very little hot throw. Not to mention CBL129 shrinks a bit too much for jar candles. Anyway, I pulled those jars of the 6006 out after sitting for about a month and the throw was amazing. Unfortunately it seems 6006 needs a fairly long cure time to get the throw you want!

[mzphee]

I started out a little over a month ago using 6006. After a couple days of letting it cure I wasn't getting a good hot throw. Since then I have tried 4630...I was getting a hard time getting some of the oils to blend with this wax. Tried CBL129 and the wax was just way too transparent inside the jar once cooled, although I did get a good hot throw with a couple scents after only 24 hours...other scents very little hot throw. Not to mention CBL129 shrinks a bit too much for jar candles. Anyway, I pulled those jars of the 6006 out after sitting for about a month and the throw was amazing. Unfortunately it seems 6006 needs a fairly long cure time to get the throw you want!

I use 6006 and mostly oils from Aztec I have some oils like creme brulee I get excellent CT. But there are other oils the the at it's not S strong but it's there. I cure my candles at least 5days. I can test in 3days but 5 is the norm for me. Because of the soy and I add about 10-15% extra soy I wouldn't test until after 3 days.

[mzphee]

Thanks for the reply Steve and mzphee!

 

My thought process behind adding the 4625 was to increase my burn time a little, rather than add something like vybar or stearic and risk locking my fragrance. Adding it did do that, but also decreased my HT, still better than some I've tried, but not as good as the straight 6006. I have to agree, it wasn't really broken.

I currently use the CD wicks and they work great, just not impressed with the behavior of this wick, with the scents I like. I really like the LX as it's not a mushroomer for me. I'm not using a high fragrance load(1:1) so I'm at a loss as to what the mushrooming is coming from, a CD 60 in a 2 1/2 diameter tin, should be perfectly fine.

I also wanted to come up with something that would pop out of a warmer easily, as you know 6006 isn't coming out without a fight! lol No one complains, because the throw is worth it, but I'd like my customers to not have to "work" at changing scents in the warmer. I guess I need to change over to a straight paraffin for my tarts or head back to the drawing board. Unless either of you have suggestions for me to test out?

Thank you so much for all the insight you give in this forum! It's great to have a source of knowledge to draw from on this journey!

I use 6006 for containers only. But I will pour my extra in a 2oz portion cup for personal use. Again I mix 6006 with soy. It is a little hard getting out of the warmer. I use PB for my tarts and I love it....oh yeah I use zinc wicks and I get mushrooming also. I hate it but I like the wick wax jar combo I have.... So I make sure my customers know to trim the wick ...I stress it...it makes a difference in the burn and keeps the mushrooming to. Min