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So should I switch from GW444 to GW464?


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Aztec is having a one day sale on GW464.  I've only used 444 for the past 5 years.

 

I know 464 has a lower melt point.  When I research the two waxes, some people love 464, others love 444.  Is there really much difference?

 

Thanks for any input...the sale is just today, so I need to decide quickly!

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Guest OldGlory

Gail, I have heard there is little difference between the 2 waxes. For me, it wouldn't be worth all the wick and fragrance testing to switch over to save $10 a case. However, if you are considering switching permanently to 464, I can say that I have been using it for many years, and it consistently performs well for me. I sometimes get frustrated with the frosting, but I'm a type A, lol.

I would be happy to share with you any wicking info that I can if you make the change.

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Gail, I have heard there is little difference between the 2 waxes. For me, it wouldn't be worth all the wick and fragrance testing to switch over to save $10 a case. However, if you are considering switching permanently to 464, I can say that I have been using it for many years, and it consistently performs well for me. I sometimes get frustrated with the frosting, but I'm a type A, lol.

I would be happy to share with you any wicking info that I can if you make the change.

 

One reason I've thought of switching is I've read that 464 has better glass adhesion. That hasn't been much of an issue in the past for me because I used to just make candles in cups and mugs (which I know is not generally approved of on this board.)  Now I am mostly using jars, and now you can see through the glass and see any wet spots.  :)  

 

Also since I've started using jars, I want to dye my wax more...for pumpkin, apple etc.  But the tops aren't as smooth when I use dyes.  There are 'sink holes' or 'craters' around the wick.  I know I can use a heat gun to fix that, but I wanted to see if using 464 would make for smoother tops.

 

I didn't think about having to change wick sizes...I figured that would be about the same.  I usually use ECO wicks.  I recently bought some HTP wicks and want to test them.

 

Thanks so much for your reply and offering to help me.  :)

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Guest OldGlory

I have had some instances of 464 pulling away from glass, but not many. That is true. Usually, when it pulls away, it does the whole jar.

When you add a dye, you will experience a lot of frosting. I get more frosting with spicy FOs, like pumpkin pie, apple jack, etc, but I can get frosting with citrus and sage too. It's not just the spicy scents, but more frosting on those.

What you make your candles in is up to you, not the board :)  We just want everyone to make safe candles. At least cups and mugs have to be heat tolerant, so much better than a thin wine glass! Man, those scare me!

I can help you get smooth tops. Most folks say to pour around 140 but I choose to pour at a creamy stage instead, at least on the tops. Depends on how big a hurry I'm in, LOL!

I use Premier wicks in all of my soy candles, so I can't help with the wicks you use. I would guess there is little difference, but as we all know, a little difference can be a big deal in how a candle burns.

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I learned a long time ago with 444 wax to pour when it starts to 'thicken' or get creamy for smoother tops.  But it isn't working as well with dyed wax.  I am using spicy fragrance oils, and of course you have to add a lot of dye to soy wax unless you want pastel colors. I just don't get why dye makes the tops sink in around the wick.  Soy wax is fickle!

 

You have been so helpful to me on different topics and I appreciate you taking the time to reply.   

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I use 444 and have for years. I like the slightly higher melt point especially in the hot summers. I have very little problems with wet spots and when they happen I try not to freak out about it and take a trip to the local y**k** and look at their candles and forget about them. I have only as of late been having problems with some sink holes near the wicks but nothing that a few seconds with a heat gun and little left over wax can't fix. I dye some of my candles and leave others white. I hate having to be a candle sundial at out door shows moving the vanilla types out of direct sun. My biggest problem is with anything purple. It starts out a lovely shade of purple or lilac and then morphs into something. I have not been using much of those shades lately unless asked for specifically.

 

I keep saying I am going to stop dying the candles all togetherr but I think it sometimes makes for a boring display.

 

Karen in MA

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Thanks Karen, I did order a box of the 464, but I still have two 50 lb boxes of the 444.  Now I guess I'll see for myself which is best for me.

 

The only time I had a real problem with wet spots was because I think I let the wax get too cool before I poured it.  I read that if the wax cools too quickly in the jars, there could be wet spots.

 

Do you notice more sink holes when you use dye?  That's when I get them. 

 

I like your expression, 'candle sundial.'  :)  I don't do shows, so I don't have to worry about the sun, except when I give someone a candle in the summer I tell her not to leave it in a hot car.

 

Thanks for your input!

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  • 3 years later...
On 11/13/2017 at 3:41 PM, Jbruza said:

I use the GW444 personally. Does anyone have any insight as to what FO have the best hT in this? I've only found 2 out of like 15 that totally knock my socks off every time without fail. 

 

I wrote a big long reply and lost the internet connection when I submitted it.  So I'll just say that I've only had a very small percentage of FO's that didn't have much HT out of the 200 some I've bought over the years.

 

I've been satisfied with the vast majority of them.  Of course the spicy ones are stronger that floral usually.  Pumpkin Souffle and Cinnamon Stick from Candlescience are two of the very strongest ones I've used, and Baked Apple from Rustic Escentuals.  Also Cinnamon Broom from Fragrance Buddy.  

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