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Help! Clarus 3022 and wick question


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Hi.. I have been getting back into candle making after a 4 year hiatus.  What I used to use was the wax that Greenleaf sold. I recently found out that it is the same as Clarus 3022. I have ordered a case from Melanie (real sweetheart) and I am ready to get back to my hobby.  My problem is that I am having a hard time getting a meltpool or much of a hot throw off several scents. I was hoping some of you that have worked with the Clarus 3022 wax could give me some ideas.

When I used this 70%(soy) 30%(paraffin) wax before from GL, I was using the Crisa Jars. (I think they were about 8 oz). I used 1oz per pound of fragrance and always used LX wicks. I used to use a LX20 and on a few LX22. And I only used GL fragrances at the time. Heated wax to 200 and then added the oil and poured around 180. Actually, this formula worked real well. I always got a MP to the glass edges and had the MP about 1/2" deep with in the 2 1//2 hour period.  All sides of the glass were clean and the HT throws were amazing.

Those were the days :)

 

NOW....

I am happy to have the same wax. But I decided to change my containers to the Prestige 12 oz jars. I also go with all my oils through Peak now. My wicks are also the cotton core wicks C80. And I now use 9% FO. Or 1.5 oz/per pond.  Other than the oil, the percentage of oil and the change of  wicks... I do everyelse the same (Temp., pouring, curing).

The result is a candle that does not give me good HT, and never do I have a good MP. It doesnt seem to go to the edges of the glass.. and when it melts down all the way, it will leave alot of hangup on 1/2 of the glass.

My recent battle is with Peaks Genuine Leather. My friend adores that scent, and I am feeling horrible that I am making candles that I am not happy with.  The fragrance oil is amazing.. and I want to have that scent smell her home instead of just when you stand over it.

 

Today, I burned 3 candles (I remade some the other day). One has a C75, the other has a C80 and the last one had a CD10.

After 3 hours of burning...none of them had reached the edges. Again not much HT. Out of the 3, the one that looked the most promising was the C80, but again , there was a good 1/2" of wax around the MP.

I dont get it.

So my question is solely about how to get a better MP. Which type of wicks do you use with this wax. I am wondering about getting LX again.. But I assume I would need larger since the 20 was the most common one I used - but again it was for a different size container.

 

I am really wanting this scent to work, especially when I look at the reviews of Peak Genuine Leather and it seems other people are having success with it. Any help is GREATLY appreciated!!!!

Thank you!

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I've been with this wax for over 6 years now and use cdn or cd wicks. My salsa jars take a cd 18 or 20 to get a full mp and some fragrances need about a week of cure time. But the majority of fragrances are ready to go out the door a day or two after being made. I heat to 200 degrees in the turkey fryer and pour at 185 degrees into warmed jars and then cover in a large cardboard box with blankets to insulate overnight. I  don't know what your container  diameter is but the salsa jar is about 3.75 inches across and the cd 18 or 20 will get a 1/2 inch deep full  melt pool in about 20 minutes or so. HTH

 

Steve

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Thank you! My jars are a little over 3 inches. I did try a CD12 and that was still not good enough. I have ordered some LX wicks and some Premier wicks to see how that will do. But maybe I should order a higher CD as well......

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My last cdn wicks were from Southwest Cabdle Supply but I also buy the 12 inch cdn from Candle Coccoon and a bag of wick base assemblies and get three wicks out of each one. I like a thick coating on those wicks. I would try a cdn 16 or 18 with that diameter. HTH

 

Steve

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CDN wicks burn a little hotter and they stand up to the wax due to the coating. The 3020 is Clarus' version of 6006 and has to be wicked down substantially but you can use the same wicking.  I understand the the 3020 is very popular but I like the 3022 better.

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I find the CDN burns cooler in pure soy- 415

They have a different coating than the CD from which I understand more suitable to soy waxes

If a CD12 burns too hot for me in a jar a CDN12 will usually be just about perfect- sometimes not enough

In 3022 I am finding the same results - a cooler burn

I am testing the 12 ounce Salsa jar and CD16 gets a little too hot but the CDN16 is not quite enough- I will be upping to a CD and CDN18 to see

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I find the CDN burns cooler in pure soy- 415

They have a different coating than the CD from which I understand more suitable to soy waxes

If a CD12 burns too hot for me in a jar a CDN12 will usually be just about perfect- sometimes not enough

In 3022 I am finding the same results - a cooler burn

I am testing the 12 ounce Salsa jar and CD16 gets a little too hot but the CDN16 is not quite enough- I will be upping to a CD and CDN18 to see

Thank you both for your input! this is an ongoing saga. Every bit of info I get, I appreciate. I have some CD wicks coming. I ordered some LX.. but I am questioning that one. Though when I used this 70/30 wax through Greenleaf.. they recommended the LX for me. So I will try that one. I have Premier wicks coming.... and Stabilo wicks.  I am bound and determined to get this right... and to hold onto my sanity!

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  • 3 months later...

I'm back to the 3022. I love this wax and the depth that it has, but I am still struggling getting a FMP unless it goes over 6 hours!!! Steve, you mentioned you use this wax.. I am curious to you add any additives? I see that you get a FMP in 20 minutes. Is that on the first burn? Or as it gets further down the glass? Tonight I heated it to 190 and stirred and poured about 170. I am doing 10% FO (southwest leather).. Which I found out has some vanilla in it.. So I imagine it is pretty heavy. I just tried another wax (more paraffin) and I did get a FMP at 5.5 hours. ( on the first burn) but there was no HT and I used 6%. My jar is 3.25 diameter. I see yours is a bit larger and I am so envious that u get a FMP in 20 minutes! What am I doing wrong??? You would think I should be using something smaller than a cd18 since my jar is smaller, right? Ugh.... Any help, I would appreciate.

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CDN wicks were invented in Germany for use in steric acid candles. They are the same size as corresponding CD wicks but they are soaked in a different finishing solution that helps to neutralize the acidic properties of natural candles. You may find that a CDN will burn out an inch further then its regular CD counter part. For instance, the CD18 will burn out to about 3" in EL soy container with Vanilla Voodoo but a CDN18 will burn 4" in diameter in the EL soy container!!!!

Due to increased efficiency in burning CDN wicks may burn cleaner in natural waxes.

I use 7% fo load on average but sometimes 6% is sufficient. If you are talking complete wall to wall liquid mp with no hang up, then that's middle of the jar. For me, a full mp would have some hang up and might not be fully liquefied. So I guess that's somewhat misleading. Not all fos achieve and adequate mp and those are rejected from my line up. You will have to find fos that will give you an adequate burn and have an adequate ct/ht as well. I've been at this for a long time and its hunt and peck until you get lucky. Are your candles throwing a good ht? Regardless of mp? HTH

Steve

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The HT isnt where I would like, but it is definitely better with this 3022. Thanks for the clarification ..I keep thinking that a FMP is clean sides, no hangup. I thought it would have to be translucent when it was a FMP. It so confusing, because when I watch videos of high end fragrance stores that are talking about the candles they carry. They say things like.."we dont accept candles that dont have a clean burn. Meaning that it has reached all sides of the glass and it cleaned the sides." But when that happens wont the glass get too hot as it burns down?

This is a picture of what I am picturing what I should be striving for near the first burn??

ugh I cant post the picture. Can I pm you and post it there?

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Sure. I'd like to see a Yankme without a tunnel. You hit the nail on the head. I like a little wiggle room throughout the burn. I strive for the best results but there are limits to what you can reasonably expect from any set of variables. You just don't expect a simple candle to have so many variables.

Steve

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