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cgoff

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  1. I give people a dollar off if they return the jar, as that is aproximately what I paid for them, I certainly don't reduce my profit margin on them. I have some customers who typically buy 5-6 candles a month, and they're the ones who most often return the jars. That being said, I am VERY careful about reusing jars, as there can be some liability in that. Most often the "reused" jars don't get sold, rather they are given out to friends/family or I burn them myself. I mark the jars using a Deco Color marker (permanant market that works on glass) underneath the warning label on the bottom of the candle, and I NEVER reuse a container twice. It's not worth the risk. http://1stopsquare.com/marvy/markers/paintmarker.html
  2. I LOVE this scent, I actually bought 5 pounds of it last year, and it's about a third gone. What wax are you using? I have had very good luck with C1 and the GW444 with this, no so much with C3.
  3. OR you could go for broke, and double wick it using 4's.
  4. I use an aimflame, I bought one of those flexy hose lighters too...and the ignighter died after the second fill up. -Chris
  5. Moonshine, I read that they suggested the HTP ones for the C1 and C3, so I figure I'll buy a mix pack so I can size them right. Unless someone has been using these and can tell me which wicks are right. https://www.anchoronline.com/specials/country-comfort-jar.html -Chris
  6. So today's update! I talked to the place I have powerburning both C1 and C3 samples, the C3 continues to give oddities after it cools, it looks just like the pictures I posted above from my sample burn. The C1, however, is giving even more scent throw per their observance than the 444 used to. They were described as DAMN strong, even more so than the original ones...this could be good...less FO is less $$ which would equate to cheaper oil changes. =) The C3 continues to dissapoint...even the cold throw on day 4 of the never burned candle is substantially lower than either the 444 or the C1...I think I have found my new wax in the C1. I'm not sure if it is how I'm pouring or the FO's i'm using, but the C1 I have is totally creamy...I hope that my supplier didn't swap the two accidentially (I just got small batches for samples). I would be pissed if I ordered 250 pounds of C1 and ended up with what I think is the C3 now. -Chris
  7. OK so far, I'm not all that thrilled with the C3, it looks like an alien landscape when it cools. It did the same thing on initial pour, and again after the first burn. The C1 was smooth as can be. The mix I'm using is 17 ounces of C3, 2 ounces of FO (I think this is Candlewic's Apples and Maple Bourbon) and no extra additives. It is double wicked with LX24's (these containers are really wide at their widest part, so even a single LX30 doesn't give a full melt pool. The scent throw is pretty good, although not even close to the 444 with this load. I made them, and waited a couple days, so although I'm kind of breaking my normal 7 day cure time...I need to make a decision pretty quick, as my 444 supply is getting closer to it's end. I'm going to light the C1 tomorrow and see how that does it's first burn.
  8. I live in Massachusetts, and I have never had any of those issues, when cooling, I place the candles into my special insulated cooling box, which has a "raised" floor using a wire rack, individual insulated dividers between the candles, and an insulated top. As a result the candles cool very slowly, and from the bottom up. The C1 came out flawless, where as the C3 came out all crazy looking, like some weird cyrstaline growth had actually extended to over where it was poured to, and there was a giant divot in the middle as a result of this growth. I heatgunned it down no problem, but we'll see how they fare after some power-burns. I gave one of each to my tester at the garage down the street. As far as FO pooling on top of the candles, I have never had that issue, and I use a TON of FO. My candles do soot a little unless you keep the wicks trimmed, and they do mushroom, but both are easily fixed with the a pair of scissors. Chris
  9. I'll try that Stella, I found that with the 444, as long as I let the candles cure for a 5-10 days before burning them they burned with no problem and the scent filled a large room (like in a 4 bay automotive shop where many of my candles are burned) without having to use multiple candles. I am friendly with one of the guys up the street who owns a shop and he burns them all the time because he said they're the only candles which can cover the smell of oil soaked concrete, so we trade candles for oil changes for our cars. It is also the place where I test-burn many of my new scents/wax blends and see if he gets complaints or compliments. -Chris
  10. What are you guys using to wick these? I tossed some of my LX wicks in just to try, but I was wondering what you guys are using. I use a pretty high scent load in most of my candles (normally 12-13%) so something that helps combat mushrooming would be amazing. I thought about trying HTP, anyone have experience with this combo? -Chris
  11. They are lid included, which is why 1.50 shipped was a great deal. I just like that they look more like candle jars compared to the canning jars, and I'm not selling them, it's just my hobby...so getting it on the cheap is super great! I don't think the smaller ones I ordered have a lid
  12. So I am in the same boat as you Stella, 444 or 464 is a 6 hour drive from me each way, and a new local supplier (45 minutes away by car!!!) of C1 and C3 http://gacwholesale.com/ I took the plunge. I called him and he shipped me 5 pound testers of each, which I actually got today and started to test with. I do use a very high scent load (2oz added to 17 oz wax for 19 oz candle, or 12.8%) and was getting great results with the 444, a tsp PP of USA, and 1/4 tsp of UV inhibitor added to the presto pot, not each candle. I heated to 200, added color, then FO, stirred until 175, poured into the jars inside my cooling box (insulates the candles while cooling so they harden w/o caveties) I'll see how these work, and let you know what I find. I have them double wicked with LX24's in my golf-ball jars, I made 2 for each the C1 and C3, one with no additives, and one with the USA and UV. I'll take pictures after they dry. -Chris
  13. SO I was almost out of my standard containers for my candles, and I was poking around online, and I found that anchor hocking had their 16 ounce jars for a buck each. https://www.anchoronline.com/specials/country-comfort-jar.html They also have these 8 ounce flared jars which are $0.70 each. I got 100 of the 16 ounce jars and 40 of the little jars shipped for under 50 bucks too...so all said and done the big jars were under 1.50, which is a LOT cheaper than I can get anything locally. Just figured I'd share a nice find. Chris
  14. So I just called GAC, they're going to ship me some 5 lb testers, if this stuff works comparably to my golden brands 444..I just found a new supplier an hour away instead of 6!! -Chris
  15. Yea, even with Candlewic's (which is the closest supplier to me) shipping rates, it doubles the cost of the wax for me, and makes this hobby a bit too expensive. Candlescience is even more, and even with Peak's discount, they are so far away from me that they're even worse. I'm debating whether or not to suck it up and drive the 5 and a half hours out there. I figure if I pick up at least 5 cases of wax, which I will definitly do, I would save more than the cost of the shipping by a bunch. I just wish that CandleChem carried other waxes. They do sell EcoSoya CB-135, but they charge 82 bucks a case, compared with 53 for the GW444 at Candlewic, plus it's still an hour's drive one way for me. Where is a good local goldenbrands supplier when you need one! Or amazon...I wish they sold it on Amazon Prime...I'd totally have that stuff shipped to me that way. -Chris
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