macaroni&cheese

YankMee -- I'll have to remember that one.

I agree with those who say stock up as much as you can while you test new 'strains'. I've had to do this even with glass. I hate scouring the internet anymore ever since my frosted containers went on the scarce side. Right after that, My C3 started turning into chalk - will it ever end? I've switched to CBA for glass and CB-135 for tins with a hint o'Coconut oil, no troubles as of yet... Yes, I have the same question as Tootie...what B&B Law? Here in Oklahoma they just passed legislation to cause crafters of children's clothing, bows, toys etc to test their own merchandise by an independent lab. PER ITEM, mind you. I looked it up and it's about 415 bucks a pop for pthalate testing, although lead testing is now a cheap kit. Are the big guys trying to choke us out? What will happen next? I know we're not talking about making kid's clothing here, but I can't help but wonder what's next? Jeff

I read somewhere Short and squat gets lower pouring temperatures, while tall and thin (Like my rocks jars) gets a higher pouring temp. The difference, I understand, is purely for cosmetic reasons, and I think that is what you're looking for. HTH!

I use CBA and the only thing I get is the FO "droplets" on the top with heavier FO's but only above 75-80F. I am getting ready to try out CB-135 in my tins, but waiting on the wax to arrive. HTH!

Also try Freund Container. They've also got some neat stuff on there.

So far, I have been using the C-3 in my tins and I absolutely LOVE IT!! I haven't had this kind of throw since days gone by of experimenting with parasoy blends. For the larger candles, like our own 'Einstein' (Stella 1952) said about C-3, I have noticed if I cover the candles, the sink holes stop. Now on to finding the perfect wick!! I have tried them all except for the premeire series, and I don't like any so far: they either eat the fragrance, mega-shroom, or burn too small of a dia. They are only three and a quarter inch dia. jars, so I don't want to 2-wick, but Keep testing I will do!!

I am still using it, although more conservatively, meaning maybe a teaspoon per batch, but I believe even that little makes a big difference. I will be changing waxes however, and I will need to test before and if I re-incorporate into the mix. But CO makes a good wax with a poor HT work very well.

Do you folks have lots of people asking you things like, "How do you get the smooth tops?" Or, "How do you sell them at this price?" I was just wondering what is the right response, besides "NO DEAL, Kimosabe!" What if someone has information you want as well? Have you ever negotiated information before? I was just wondering your thoughts.

Love Spell type. Smells authentic and is long-lasting! I know most chandlers get choked up with this stuff, but my customers can't get enough of this one, or the plumeria. Plumeria is weird. the first hour and a half it is fair, but then gets increasingly stronger as time goes by. Folks like that too. It's hard to get the candle nose that way.

Also interesting how the NGI wax's forum is locked up...convenient.

As a matter of fact, it IS the exact lot#. Hmmmmm.

Kimmeroo, how's the HT with the CD's? I need to look in my books, but I think I took issue with them or something. But it never hurts to re-test, as wax, and opinions both change over time. Thanks for the tip!! Jeff

FunFlames, I use 1.32 oz./lb, except on heavy or super conc. FO's, and no trouble. Here's the trick. I add fragrance to the pitcher first -- temp reasons more than anything -- then I add dye, then I pour from the vat into the pitcher, then top off on the scale to exactly 64 oz. which runs me approx. 8-8.5%, and no synerisis (or however you spell it.) I heat the wax to 188F because 90% of FO's bind in this temp range. But you CAN'T leave CBA there for long! Manuf. specs say 155F. If you look on every FO bottle you buy, you will see the directions to be to add 6 to 10%, but I felt like I should find out the FO load of the wax from the wax manufacturer, to play it safe. Besides, if I have to add THAT much, I need to be ISO another fragrance dealer that has an higher concentration.

What exactly is this spreadsheet? It must be a doozie! Is it a quickbooks kind of a deal?

Actually, I think you are pretty close. With all my troubles with CBA here lately, I can't give you a definitive answer as to what my burn times are NOW, what with my having to go back to the drawing board with a suspected change in the CBA formula, but I WAS using a zinc wick for a cooler burn, and I was getting closer to 65+ hours. Now that I have stepped up the wicks a size, that has definitely changed, but I am not done testing to verify anything, but I am leaning in the 55 hour direction. HTH!