xalwayswins

Epolene sounds intriguing

I recently got free samples from Accublend but ultimately it was not the wax for me. It took a few times to get in touch with the right person but eventually I was connected with Scott who is Sales / Marketing. He was very friendly. The minimum order isnt too crazy but can be a lot if you're not in the position to buy a few pallets at a time.

So at 0.5% I was able to get a solid black. With that percentage, which you would think seems very low, its still clogging the wick. I backed my fragrance down some and went up a size in eco wicks. Currently gonna try a eco 12 in a 2.9" diameter glass. Which seems HUGE but 8 and 10 have both clogged heavily.

HAHA, well Bitter Creek tech support told me to try that! I am using a para soy blend with 464 and harmony blend paraffin. I added the dye to the fragrance first and mixed and mixed and mixed. There was some clumps for sure. I tried for a while to get them all to dissolve but it seemed like it wouldn't dissolve all the way. I mixed the fragrance and dye in a small measuring glass. I also tried mixing them in a regular sized pyrex measuring glass and a wisk. I mixed the wax forever to just make sure I was getting the best blending I could. At this little amount its hard to weigh accurately. This dye gets EVERYWHERE haha.

I have been trying the black powder dye and am not getting very good results. I used the pinch, dash smidgen spoons fro bittercreek as well. I did 3 test batches of 1lb each. Each time doubling the dye. The only one that got remotely black was using 2 dashes. All 3 were all definitely blue, but the 3rd batch was the closest to black. The 2 dashes is about 0.25% but it certainly clogged the wick. I called bitter creek and they suggested adding some red dye to the mix at half part red to 2 parts black. I have not tried that yet as I am waiting for the red dye to arrive. I feel like .025% is too much though. ESP seeing the instructions call for 0.05%.... Any ideas here???

6006 has too much paraffin for me. I have tried relief holes but a second pour or remelting tops isn't really a viable option for large batches. Heating the jars helps. I cool all my candles on a bakers rack so I'm thinking of getting the rack cover to try and slow down the cure.

Thanks for the advice. I will try slowing down the cure, I'll need to find a scaleable option for larger batches . I noticed the large issues with the 464 but figured out how to get it back to normal, but adding the paraffin has really thrown me for a loop.

Brand new to the board, but not to candle making. I've been making / selling candles for 5 years now. Always used 464. I recently started adding 4630. I have been mixing 444 with 464 too. I just cannot find the right mix of the 4630. I add 10% 4630. No matter what temp I pour at I get MASSIVE craters beneath the surface. Tops look perfect until I burn them. After a few minutes of burning the craters open up and all the melted wax fills the nooks causing the wick to burn down. A few minutes later the candle self extinguishes. Ive poured every 5 degree increment from 180 to 115. I love using 464 but want a better throw. I use this all in 9oz straight sided jars. So I know I'm not gonna get the best throw but would like more than I am getting without having to add too much paraffin. Any suggestions???