pughaus

Hi Yorkie, Have you tried Scent Memory's Cristal Saffron and Jasmine?

"This fragrance is a dead-on imitation of the fragrance in the animal-themed lodge at the big mouse park in Florida." https://scentmemoryfragrance.com/collections/hotel-collection/products/sandalwood-tobacco-1

I'm about a couple of years late on this but if anyone is still looking: https://ambrosinacandlevesselco.com/products/golden-blush-cup-9zzcc-8acph

@Ernie they have a license agreement with Lucasfilm as well as the Harry Potter publisher. Homesick is not a small operation.

Forgive me if I've shard this before, but this man says he is a co author the ASTM protocols. 140 F is the max temp according to him . His responses to comments are enlightening.

yikes. imagine complaining to a fragrance supplier because the candle you made isn't burning safely. It's scary to think how many candles are released to the public by makers that really have no understanding of basic candle making.

I 2nd this! Xersis you may find it helpful to watch this video. It'll answer most of your questions and give you all the visuals you need. Among other things, it will show you how much hang up you can have well into the burn life of a soy candle and still have it consume all the wax by the end. I believe they are using 464 wax in this video.

Wow. That's a first for me and I've been repping candle lines for decades, including several in the $100+ price point. That's a rather annoying way to have to burn your high end candle, just 1 hour at a time. It'll barely make it through cocktail hour! Not that 99.9% of their end users will read that or follow it. I wonder if this is more related to their custom, fragile? fragrance formulations which maybe can't withstand the heat from a longer burn. * oops- I just noticed BusyBee basically just said the same thing! I agree, Busy

I'm Team Premier myself. Works in my wax, but I'm not sure how they do in 6006.

Hi KMB! It looks like you've really been bouncing around trying to wick a variety of vessels. No wonder you're frustrated! May I suggest you pick one, ideally a 3 x 3" or 3 x 4" straight sided tumbler - and nail that vessel down before you try wicking others? Find the right wick for it with NO fragrance oil. Then you'll have your baseline wick for that wax in that vessel. Everything will be so much easier from that point on. (and you'll waste a whole lot less FO flailing around) Stick with that vessel. Forget about scent throw for now- just strive to make a candle that burns well first, then you can work on adding FOs into the mix and making a good throwing candle.. in that vessel. It will all come together much more easily at that point. Also, I'm wondering if what you are calling "tunneling" .. isn't tunneling at all, but rather the appropriate amount of hang up early in a candle's burn cycle. My candles don't form an edge to edge melt pool until late in their burn life. There is typically hang-up and wax clinging to the sides of the vessel until the last 1/2" in a 3" tall tumbler. I consider this ideal. When it's all done, all the wax has been consumed and the sides are clean. Pics for reference: One of my tester candles with a new-for-me FO after a burn 1 (6 hours). Would you consider that tunneling? Pic 2 is the same candle after burn 2 (5.5 hrs) This candle actually has less hang up at this point than usual for me - that cling will all melt down early in the next burn and I may very well step down 1 wick size for the next tester to see how that fares.

I liked Cierra's Santal OOB but couldn't coax and throw -hot or cold- out of it in a candle. Maybe you'll have better luck with it.

shout out to 2 etsy makers whose candles I recently received 👏 1.Tokyn- a beautiful, very giftable combo of a votive surrounded by gel with embeds . Seems like a simple thing but she just does it so well and the finished product is lovely, upscale and unique. Even the label is just right. Packaged in a substantial, luxe gift box. It's almost to pretty to burn it, but I will. Looks like a 100% soy wax in there, but honestly it's so good looking I barely even care about the actual candle in there. My pic doesn't do it justice. Check out her etsy for better pics. 2. Wellness by Ari- this yellow beeswax and coconut oil candle has disabused me of the idea that essential oils don't throw in candles. Wow. This is an absolute powerhouse thrower and I'm absolutely LOVING the all-EO fragrance. Like inject- this- into- my veins loving it. Completely fills my LR in under 10 minutes with a nicely blended combo of patch, cedar, lav and.. bergamot? My EO blends never smell this good. I think I need a better patch. (Many years ago I carried a line called Aromatherapy of Rome /AOR in my store. AOR made pricey mottled paraffin pillars that were dripping with EOs. They burned like a hot mess but smelled divine. I sold thousands of them. This etsy candle smells just like my favorite AOR pillar, sans the soot. Yum.) Both came with thoughtful, personal, hand written thank you notes which is always a nice touch. I'll be buying from both these women again.

maybe it's just me and my wax, but I don't get discernably better throw when I go above 8%. It only seems to add the potential for some late soot and/or mushroom action.

I go with a lower FO% in my multi wick candles, just because they throw so well. Sometimes too well for my taste. I'd try a wick down instead. Especially with a 3 wicker. A CD3 or have you tried some P725s in that?

https://nypost.com/2021/01/18/gwyneth-paltrows-vagina-candle-ignites-in-uk-home-report/

did you try bittercreek?

https://citybonfires.com/products/portable-and-reusable-bonfire Genius!

👋re: premier sizing -just chiming in with a comparison that might be helpful depending on your wax's soy:para ratio. I wick a 4" dia. Weck jar with two P725s and get a pretty much perfect burn (with a select # of FOs) I've never worked with 6006 but I use my own blend that's 50% soy + para + coconut oil, so maybe it's similar to yours. If I were to tackle your vessel in my wax, I'd start testing with 3 P735s as the shallowness of your container means you won't have the trapped heat effect to melt down any hang up on the sides. For a visual- Here's a pic of one with P725s that I'm burning right now that's close to the end of it's burn-life.. FO is 5% Riverstone from Cierra (an easy wicker with great throw btw) That bit clinging to the sides will melt down in the next couple of hours to leave a clean jar by the end.

I'm a little confused. If you want your embeds to show through the wax, why are you trying to make it more opaque by adding vybar? What does it look like with just 1260 and no vybar?

What country are you in @ScienceCandles

I make my own blend now out of plain (no additives) soy, para and coconut oil. Simple, easy to obtain ingredients and best of all I know exactly what's in my wax and how much. Like talltayl, I suggest you add soy to your coco83 to make that 45 lbs you've got workable. I used to do a 50:50 blend of 415 : coco83 and it was...ok. Less soy wasn't enough IMO to control the flame,adequately, more soy led to the usual soy appearance stuff. The sooting/flame size was much reduced with a 50:50 ratio but sinkholes were common in certain containers, and you'll need to deal with those. Adhesion was.. pox-like. LOL Even at 50% soy I never used bigger than a cd8 in a 3" tumbler, except with one very heavy FO that took a CD10. CD 8, htp 83 and 93 were my go to wicks for a 3" dia. (I rarely trim wicks between test burns and always burn in a min 4hr increment.) That said, it's been years since I bought coco83 and the wax today may be very different than what you have (another reason I stopped using preblended mystery ingredient "coco" waxes) I hope that helps!

My prayers have been answered

@TallTaylmy coworker, a single Mom with 4 daughters in the house, recently confessed to me that she lit one of my candles in the evening in her downstairs guest bathroom when she had company. Then forgot all about it, went to bed and didn't realize it was still burning until the NEXT MORNING when she got home after driving her youngest to school. I'm sure this kind of scenario is not all that unusual. All I can say is thank god I learned how to wick candles from this forum and not from some youtuber.

4 hours is really just a standard (for me, minimum) test burn time, it's not a power burn. My power burns are 7+ hours, sometimes 9-12 hours. If you want to see some complete wick tests showing all the stages of melted wax from start to finish, this video is super helpful:

Mulholland is a good one. The fragrance notes make me think of a canyon drive on a cool,damp Cali morning. Mulholland Hwy , Kanan Dume Rd, to the Pacific Coast Highway. Actually, any of those 3 would be good. Or just : Canyon