schmee123

Recently I have been experimenting more with adding a tiny amount of beeswax to my coconut wax to help with the burn. (.25oz per 8oz of coco) The jar adhesion looks so ugly. Normally when I use the coconut wax on its own, the wax adheres perfect even without preheating the jars. But with beeswax it has a streaky look, or maybe it's jump lines? I've tried hand washing the jars as well as washing in the dishwasher, I've also tried preheating them. I think I read that beeswax isn't really meant for containers. So is this just something I am going to have to deal with or is there a way to fix it from looking this ugly?

A few months ago I decided to try coconut wax. I really love how easy it is to use and the way it looks. After reading up on it I was prepared to have a hard time wicking it but it is way more difficult than I expected. Basically my current issue is that either I have a good hot throw & the melt pool looks good but the flame is too tall and I start getting black smoke -OR- I size down one more from that and the flame looks good but the hot throw always seem to be significantly weaker. I want to eliminate any black smoke and still have a good hot throw, but I don't know if thats even possible. I'm still new at this (only been making candles for a year) so maybe I am doing something wrong. for additional information: I'm using 7.75oz tumbler from specialty bottle LX wicks 8% fragrance oil Wax is my own blend but primarily made up of Northwood Coconut wax (My results were worse when I used straight coconut wax, and seem to be better with the blend I am using, so I wouldn't say thats the entire issue)

The Wooden Wick Co. launched a supplies section on their website recently. They offer a Coco Apricot wax and a blended Coconut wax. I am wondering if anyone has tried them yet what they're opinions have been? I initially didn't even give them a thought because I thought they'd be overpriced but it's actually slightly cheaper than Northwood's coconut wax. Interested to know if the quality is any good.

Mine do that as well (I use an original wood wick, no booster). I sent a picture to wood wick's customer service team to ask about it and they said my burn looked good. So I guess it's just something to deal with, unfortunately.

Thanks for the link! I wouldn't have expected the weight to be required but after reading more into it, I can see how that makes sense.

Is there any information that is required for the main labels on candles? (not the warning labels) or just required in general on either label? I've been browsing and looking for label inspiration and noticed everyone includes different things such as notes, weight, burn time, wax type etc.

I have been experimenting with the sample kit lately. I want so badly for them to work but I'm still worried about getting a consistent burn. Wondering if anyone has tried the tube wicks?

I have been using nail clippers, not the most effective but it works for now. There is a gardening tool that could work as well but I can't think of the name of it right now (not much help, I know). As with Moonstar, I'd be interested to know about your wood wicks as well because I've been having trouble with them. I've been using the ones from the flaming candle. If I use a blended wax or a soy with additives the flame gets wild after only being lit about 30 minutes, even after sizing down on the wick and keeping it trimmed. Then I used GW 415 and had success burning it for a couple hours at a time, nice flame size and crackle. However today, the flame keeps snuffing itself out (only burned a total of 7 or 8 hours before doing this). Trying the C3 again with various wick sizes. If it doesn't work, I feel I might have to give up on them which is disappointing because I love the look of wood wicks.

Thank you! I've been sticking with 1oz per LB so I don't think I should have any problems with leaking fragrance.

I'm new to candle making and am trying to understand the flashpoint for fragrance oils. I understand that the flashpoint is the temperature at which the fragrance will ignite if met with an open flame. This might be a stupid questions but can this potentially cause a fire hazard within the candles? Secondly, I've read varying accounts of when to add the fragrance oils. I've seen that the flashpoint doesn't matter when adding the fragrance to your wax but also that some people use it as a guideline for when to add their fragrance oils. Lastly, in regards to shipping. I've seen that certain fragrances cannot be shipped via air because of their flashpoint. Does this apply to shipping finished candles?