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birdcharm

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birdcharm last won the day on October 22

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About birdcharm

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    candles, bath & body
  1. It's not that messy really, lol, especially not compared to those caramels I just tried to make! There are probably several ways to do it. For my personal candles, I will often first cut the wick to the length I need, thread it through the wick tab and secure tightly with lineman pliers. Then I melt a little wax in the bottom of a melting pot, metal can, etc., dip the wick into the wax and lay it out on waxed paper. If I am not sure yet of the lengths I'll need, I sometimes do longer pieces and then cut and tab later. Or, if I'm making the candle for someone else, I'll cut to length, dip, then tab. Doing it this way makes the wick come out much cleaner having been threaded through the wick tab with the wax on it. You just need to do it over some newspaper to catch the wax sprinkles (excess wax) that will fall off from going through the metal tab.
  2. I've ordered from a few different places, but my last order was from Cierra ... it is unprimed in 10 yard amounts. I hand-tab my wicks with a 6 or 10mm sleeve/collar fastener that I purchased loose years ago. I'm in the habit of doing that, so it doesn't bother me much and their primed with the same wax that will be used for the candle.
  3. I don't think the Sandalwood Incense has any patchouli in it ... I think it has a hint of musk, but I'm pretty sure WSP's "Soothing Sandalwood" might have patchouli in it, and I read about their "Mystical Woods" described by a reviewer's comment as "Sandalwood, Patchouli and a hint of Bergamot" -- I might try that sometime, although I'm afraid if the patchouli would be too strong and I plan to sample their regular Sandalwood next time around, but I went with the "budget scent" for my first order.
  4. I'm getting the feeling that the humidity level as well as temperatures can affect this wax. I wouldn't heat it to any temperature higher than what is recommended (I've read that it can become slightly discolored around 200dF), but if there is bubbling, I would leave it on the heat a little longer. The other thing I'm wondering about is drying out the wax a little bit ahead of time, but that might be a pain. I've noticed that my most recent order of soy seems more moist than my older stock, but I haven't had any major issues. As for shipping, one thing that helps to insulate is newspaper, yet I don't know how you would avoid temperature extremes without using heat packs or ice packs and I don't think anyone wants to have to go in that direction. If this is just condensation, then maybe a little note about this included with the candle would be a good idea.
  5. Just to clarify ... that is oil on the top of those candles and not water from condensation? I think if it was "popping/bubbling" as it was heating, that it may have had some moisture content. This hasn't yet happened to me, but my guess is that if that is the case, that it would be good to "cook" the wax for a little bit of time, maybe bring it up to 185dF, then allow it to drop some and bring it up again, or maintain it at that temp to hopefully draw any moisture out of it. If it's moisture that has been trapped in there and then it went through drastic temperature changes, I can see how that might happen. Is it oil on the surface or water? If it's water, can't they be aired out and blown with a hair dryer to evaporate it off and leave them uncovered for awhile?
  6. Both C/T and H/T were good! For this project I used WSP's Frasier Fir, Sandalwood Incense, and Spiced Cranberry. My first test was with 6%, but the C/T wasn't as strong as I wanted it, so I increased it just a bit, probably was at about 7-8%. With the Fir, I added just a couple of droppers of a "Natural Pine" which is a resin type of scent that I bought at Candle Cocoon at some point and I'm trying to use it up, it's not so good imo by itself, but mixed well in a very small amount. To the Sandalwood Incense, I added just a little of another sandalwood I have and some buttercream, making for a unique, smooth sandalwood-type of scent (friend adored it). After a day, I put the lids on and a week later, upon opening lid, I was pleased with the results and happy that my heat gun didn't decide to burn out in the middle of the project as it waited to the very end, although I would have liked to have gone over a few wet spot areas, but glad that all of the tops had been gone over! Now I need a heat gun. I know folks here like pictures, nothing fancy ...
  7. Wooden wick flame huge?

    My concern with wooden wicks has to do with particulate matter from the burning wood. I know it's a small amount of wood, but if you burn several at a time, do you think it is worse for indoor air quality than a fiber-wicked candle?
  8. Setting up a workshop again

    My guess is that in the winter time, there's no risk in storing in there as far as temperatures go. In the summer, it might get too warm for your f/o's. I'd love your cottage!
  9. I've read some posts regarding wooden wicks and it seemed as though they may be difficult to perfect. Personally, I do not feel that your wax is the problem. I'd try Moonshine's advice regarding your fragrance and I think I'd get my feet wet with regular wicks and work with the wooden ones later.
  10. Experience With Spikenard?

    Interesting. I see it's a rare plant. I read that some say it smells "mossy." I wonder what it smells like mixed with Petitgrain. "Spikenard is at least as endangered as Rosewood, which is a slow-growing rainforest tree and is not easy to cultivate. Although spikenard is a small plant, it is also difficult to cultivate, though there have been some attempts. It typically grows wild on rocky soil at very high elevations: 10-15,000 feet (3,000-4,500 meters)." Article
  11. It's definitely true that no added color is an easier way to go. I make soy or parasoy container candles both ways though, some without any color and others with color or specks of color. Yet, sometimes I get some strange ideas and they turn out a little on the weird side like this one did last week, I must have sniffed too much Cranberry Spice ...
  12. I've just finished a test burn with GW464 in a 12oz Libbey Status Jar. I thought I'd post my results here and if anyone has any comparisons to offer, it might be interesting. It burned almost to the bottom and at that point I timed it at about 41 hours. This was comprised of 8.9 ounces of wax, 1.5 t. stearic acid, just a little over a half-ounce of scent using a #2 square braid cotton wick. The flame was very steady until getting toward the bottom where it starting to dance a little, producing a little soot on the glass, but there was no mushrooming.
  13. Soy wax appearance

    I think it may depend on the type/brand of soy wax. The tops of my candles don't look so bad after a burn, but if they sit unburned for a while, they might get a little more drier or pitted-looking, which is probably just a good way to be able to tell that it's really a soy candle.
  14. Wick sizes??

    What is the diameter of your container? ...approx. in the middle section, not at the top. I don't know if that's still considered a "mushroom," it might be a flower.
  15. Spray painting glass?

    There are also several different types in this catalog ... the one shown on that link is a spray.
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