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birdcharm last won the day on March 1

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About birdcharm

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    candles, bath & body
  1. As a follow up in my m/p experiments - I've been mixing the white with the no sweat at close to 50/50. Our weather is humid just now, and I'm not seeing any sweating. I like it because they come out a little more white. I'm starting to use the rectangle mold I just received ... I've got a few bubbles in there, but for now, I wasn't concerned with them, as a matter of fact, I'm wondering if I actually like them. I used Bartlett Pear f/o mixed with some lavender e/o. Anyway, this is what I've got now ...
  2. Although I don't use your type of wax, or make melts, I'm wondering if for that particular scent if you should use a little less. It's just a guess, but fragrance oils dissolve plastic on their own, so maybe just a little too much of it in wax in a plastic mold gets it to adhere ...?
  3. I don't think I'll be doing many more purposeful browns, but I'm going to order some herbal powders for colorants. The little rectangle silicone mold I ordered got here yesterday, so now I can fool with it, rather than the other mold I ordered sometime ago. In the meantime, I was stuck with that particular mold and thought I'd at least try to experiment a little more; trying to see if I can get a marbling type of effect without having a thermometer -- I'm not awfully impressed with my result, but I know I've got to do such things before I can come up with something better or more professional looking. I think the soap itself isn't too bad for m/p, however, so I'm going to keep playing with it. I know that experienced m/p-ers are amused, so I'll try to keep posting.
  4. It would be interesting to know when these candles were topped ... I'd top them again, it looks like there is still a little room ... or, use a heat gun to smooth them out. I typically top off the next morning or afternoon if I poured the night before.
  5. I've been using the same wax and have not been adding anything to it. There are a couple of different vybars, but I don't know if the one that would be considered useful for a low melt point wax would be suitable or do anything for soy wax; I've read that it does not affect it and that it's a waste to try, so I have not. If I were using a Parasoy, however, depending on the wax, I might consider using it, as I've commonly used it in other types of candles than the container candles I've been making now with soy wax. My notes say: Vybar-103 "is intended for waxes with a melt point above 130dF. and Vybar-260 for below 130dF." ... helps with uniform dye dispersion and a reduction in surface flaws. The same thing, imo, with stearic acid ... in other types of waxes, I use it to make the wax more opaque. I believe it also increases the melt point, so I don't use it with soy container wax -- the reason I switched from 444 to 464 was for the lower melt point -- I'm still testing the differences in the two waxes to see which one I truly prefer.
  6. Looks good ... and I see you left some room at the top in case you need to top up a little ... I bet they'll be fine!
  7. I think this is great advice, I'd never heard about this before reading it here once before. I don't twist the wicks I've used (zinc, HTP, square braid), and they have all performed fine for me over the years. However, I recently tested my first CD wick (a "self-trimming" wick) and it did lean to one side -- so the next time I test this one, I'm going to try twisting (not me "twisting" ... the wick that is!)
  8. I would like to do them again -- usually, I've done them with a variety of critters -- but it is a bit of a messy project. They are cute as gifts and definitely scent the air. I think the neatest thing about them is that you can pick up a stuffed animal from a thrift store that looks beat up and horrible, dip it and have it come out wonderful. I usually tape up the eyes before dipping, so they really look pretty awful on their way into the wax.
  9. The entire pot is ceramic, interesting about the recall! Okay, well my creative process went a bit sideways, but I think I got it to turn out for this purpose anyway. I was trying for a marbled type of effect of some sort. I'm going to get an infrared thermometer so I can do this with success (I couldn't get it). I was trying to get shades of tan & brown, which I did end up with, using a combination of some liquid colorant (remnants of old stock, I need to buy some). To darken it, I used a little black walnut powder & calendula powder -- the powders seemed to sink a bit and created a speckled look. I scented it with Drakkar Noir-type. I told you I was dabbling! Here's a pic ... now you can laugh!
  10. I think your "soy sand" would be better if you scented it, which would put you back to grinding down your wax yourself. Just my opinion!
  11. Yes ... it's a vintage pot ... I recently uncovered it from storage and it was my grandmother's ... I think circa 1975 possibly. It works great for this! I place it in a small pot that has a small amount of water and turn the burner on low. I haven't decided on a hot plate yet, so for now, I am doing this in the kitchen. Okay, I've got an experiment in a mold of sorts, as I wanted to send a man's bar soap to my dad. I tried for some kind of marble effect with shades of brown and we'll see how it goes. You'll laugh when you hear about this "mold," but I'll have to show you later if my idea works out. If it doesn't work out & I only feel like being laughed at, I'll post anyway.
  12. Thanks for asking, sorry I've been busy and didn't check back in yet. So far, I've just dabbled a bit to test things out. I've made three different pieces ... a bath bar and a little round complexion soap using the no sweat; a little round hand soap with the regular white base. All three have had a small amount of stearic acid added. The one for bath sits on shower rack and dries out very well, as does the complexion round, which sits in a soap dish. The white hand soap is in a soap dish also, but always seems moist, and wet on the underside. It only had scent added The complexion soap got the addition of a bit of green tea extract, palmarosa essential oil, and a small amount of sunflower oil. There is a difference between the no sweat and the regular, so I'm going to make some more soon, use up the white regular base and then see about ordering some more of the no sweat. Also, I ordered a little silicone mold for a deeper and more square-shaped bath bar. I'm moving along!
  13. It's like leaf litter! I remember seeing someone selling a gel candle with real peppermint candies in it ... what did they think was going to happen? It's annoying because it then gives a particular type (or all) candles a bad name.
  14. That is interesting. So, the type of wick you've used doesn't need to be mounted to the bottom? I would be afraid of a drifting wick. I think these would be difficult to sell with the loose sand, or are you thinking of marketing these as a kit of some sort? If you wanted to seal it in with a clear layer on top, I'm wondering if gel would work for that, using a zinc or HTP wick.
  15. I'm not quite certain about the appeal of it. I wouldn't personally do it. I've never burned such a candle, so I don't know if it would make it smoke more, etc. I'm thinking that it may all sink and move away from the wick as some types of glitter do, although some glitters can clog the wick and I don't know if this could have the same effect.