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itunu

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    soap b&b

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  1. I teach how to make skin and hair care products and am doing a diploma in cosmetic science in the UK. I have recently been interviewed by the saponifier magazine for an article which on the HLB system and preservatives and have copied and pasted some of the info below. If your product contains water or will come into contact with water (eg a scrub used with wet fingers) a preservative is essential to help prevent microbes (bacteria, mold, and yeast) growing. Preservatives stop growth by killing cells and spores (usually by disrupting cell membranes) or by making the product hostile to growth. It’s a common myth that anti-oxidants like vitamin E, Grapefruit Seed Extract and rosemary extract are preservatives but they are not. Oxidation of oils and butters leads to rancidity and anti-oxidants slow down this process. These anti-oxidants do not prevent bacteria, yeast, or mold from entering your product. There are many different types of preservatives – you will need one which is broad spectrum – stops (a) gram positive and gram negative bacteria, ( mold; and © yeast growing - http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.ca/2010/10/preservatives-what-can-get-into-our.html Preservatives – these 3 below are very effective, reliable and easy to use. - Liquid germall plus – this very effective and easy to use preservative is a favourite amongst DIYers including swiftcraftymonkey - INCI: Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate. use 0.5% cool down phase – good for emulsions eg lotions but can’t be used in all oil creations. - Phenonip – another very effective preservative. Use Phenonip in the heated phase of our creations as it dissolves around 60˚C to 70˚C. If you are making a lotion, it's suggested to divide the product up between the water and oil phases – 0.5% each phase. If you want to use it in a cold product, heat up some propylene glycol or glycerin and add the Phenonip to that before adding it to your product. If you want to use it in a surfactant mix - say, a shampoo bar or body wash - then add it to the heated surfactant phase. INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben. Usage: In the heated phase of your product. Divide into the oil and water phases in lotions. Suitable for all products, including anhydrous products. NOTE: Phenonip is inactivated by some non-ionic ingredients, such as polysorbate 80 (at 5%, Phenonip is completely inactivated by polysorbate 80), and slightly by polysorbate 20 and 80 at 2.5%. It doesn't do well with ceteareth-20 - it's inactivated by 5% - but it is not affected by cetearyl alcohol. - Germaben II – Another very effective preservative – very good for hard to preserve products eg those with lots of extracts. The INCI is Propylene Glycol (56%),Diazolidinyl Urea (30%), Methylparaben (11%), and Propylparaben (3%), 0.5% to 1% in the cool down phase. Water soluble, so it's not suitable for anhydrous creations. It is ready-to-use in emulsions with an oil phase of about 25% or less and water soluble formulations.
  2. Step by step instructions on how to make all of the above (plus lip balm and cp soap cupcakes) - equipment, ingredients, recipes etc - http://diybathandbody.wordpress.com/
  3. Thought I'd resurrect this post to see if there are any updates on Elite 200's performance. - How are you finding the hot throw (which % of FO is best), - is cracking an issue (I don't intend to "rip the wick") - is the pull away issue solved by pouring at 180f and cooling slowly etc??
  4. Try jojoba, macadamia or hazelnut oil instead. Also add 10% polysorbate
  5. I've been told these ones - http://www.instanta.com/Productlist.aspx?aid=47 have a larger tap/faucet on them than the other 2 boilers in my post above. I am struggling to find the technical specs though. I think I will have to go on just the info on the website. I am hoping that the tap/faucet on this one won't clog up with wax so I don't have to fit a spigot.
  6. I live in the UK so can't get a presto pot or turkey fryer over here. Choices are limited in the UK for cheap melters so I'm wondering about purchasing this - http://www.kochstar.de/shop/detail.php?cat=277&productid=1513&dataset=3 or this http://www.wardscatering.co.uk/catalogue/view/burco-safety-boiler Any ideas on whether either could be suitable? I'm worried the wax might clog the tap (or do i need to fit a spigot?). Also, when would I add the FO? presumably after it's out of the tap, into the separate pouring pot?
  7. I'm wicking for the first time using paraffin container wax a 3 wick candle (just over 4.5 inches in diameter) using pure cotton wick - 30/20. I'm having difficulty deciding how my wick test is going. I've just done a video of it - I lit it 2 hours 35 mins ago (first time burning it). I think the flame might be too small although the melt pool looks Ok, I think. Any advice would be great on flame size - how to wick for next time? Also, how to assess horizontal melt pool - i guess the usual 1 inch per hour doesn't apply to 3 wicks? Here's the video - http://youtu.be/i2Wjti96icA
  8. forgot to say, I'm using paraffin container wax.
  9. If I add either: (a) 3% more fragrance or ( decide to add dye - how does that generally affect wicking. Does this mean I need to go up one wick size for either adding dye or slightly more fragrance? Also, is it necessary to wait for the wax to cool if you are pouring into a tin as the tin will not show up wet spots? Thanks.
  10. The candle warmer is very interesting - will see what I can find in the UK.
  11. Thanks but I'm not allowed to use the oven so any other ways would be great. I'm in the UK, we don't have a walmart but I will google flatwarmer to see what it is.
  12. I'm afraid there isn't one. Do you mean sunscreen? http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.ca/2009/07/please-do-not-make-your-own-sunscreen.html
  13. I have a hexagonal jam jar - http://www.jamjarshop.com/images/shop/product/jarhex8_01.jpg which is full of wax would I be able to re-use this jar for another candle ? If I can, does anyone have any tricks/tips for getting the wax out of the jar so I can re-use it (I am prohibited from using the oven though)?
  14. Yes fragrance oils/essential oils will keep for longer if they are stored in the fridge.
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