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  1. 1 point
    Tea lights are best known and loved for their small size allowing them to easily fit into a variety of social occasions. They are enduring because they may produce a surprising amount of soft ambient light for their diminutive size. They can make a room feel warm by adding light, ambiance, and even soft fragrance to any room. They are easy to make so you can be enjoying your own handmade tea lights any time. Tea lights are a container type candle and many prefer to use a container wax. But they also work well with wax blends for tarts, votives and pillars. Additionally, just about any type wax; soy, paraffin, palm, or beeswax may be used for making tea lights. For this demonstration I am using a paraffin pillar/votive wax. I prefer a harder wax that shrinks slightly once its cooled. This allows the tea light candle to slip out of its container. I tend to spill my wax and mess up my containers so I like the idea of slipping out the tea light candle and putting it into a fresh unspoiled container. So for this tutorial I will be using a pillar/votive wax. I re-use the old tea light containers for repouring new tea light candles. If you don’t like this extra step a container wax will work just fine. Step 1: Materials For this tea light making project you will first need to gather the following materials: 8 oz Container Wax or Pillar/Votive Wax .50 oz Fragrance Oil 12 Tea Light Molds 12 Tea Light Wicks (I’m using CD-3 wicks) ½ Red color chip or 1-4 drops liquid dye Small Pouring Pot Wooden Spoon Heat Source (for melting wax) Thermometer Scale Paper Towels Step 2: Preparing and Heating Your Wax Always weigh your wax on a scale that gives you an accurate weight in pounds and ounces. I have an old Escali scale that weighs in pounds, ounces, and grams. Weigh out 8 ounces of wax and place it in your pouring pot. For my heat source I am using an electric grill. Other methods of heating wax are a double boiler, presto pot, or a professional wax melter. Using a thermometer, heat your wax to 185 degrees F. I am using a candy thermometer I purchased at a local department store in the kitchen supply section. This one happens to have an attachment that fits onto my pouring pot. Stir occasionally with your wooden spoon to heat the wax pieces and to distribute heat evenly. Step 3. Adding Dye and Fragrance Oil When your wax is fully melted and reaches 185 degrees F its time to add your fragrance and dye. I add my dye first. I am using ½ of a red dye chip I cut with a small paring knife. If you are using liquid dye you will add one drop at a time until you achieve the shade of dye you want. Add the dye chip and stir it into the wax with your wooden spoon. Continue to stir until it dissolves completely. Next weigh your fragrance oil. I am using Red Clove fragrance oil from Peaks. I use a small plastic container to weigh my fragrance in. Place the container on your scale. Use the ‘tare’ feature to zero out the weight of the container. Weigh out .5 oz (½ oz) of fragrance oil. Then add your fragrance to your wax and stir until its thoroughly blended in your wax. This may take 1-2 minutes of continuous stirring. When you are finished adding your dye and fragrance take your pouring pot off your heat source. I like to place my pot on a hot pad holder so it won’t scorch my counter top. Let it cool a bit to about 165-170 degrees F. Step 4. Wicking and Pouring Your Wax Into Your Mold While your wax is cooling, lay out your tea light holders. Place a wick in the center of each container. I am using both plastic and metal containers so you can see how each type turns out. For my wax I am using CD 3 tea light wicks. When your wax has cooled to about 165-170 degrees F its time to pour your tea lights. Carefully pour the wax into the tea light container until it reaches the top. Try not to over pour. I put down some paper on my counter top to catch any wax drips. When you finished pouring you may want to check each wick to make sure its centered in the container. Adjust any wick if necessary. Do this now while the wax is still hot and liquid. Once its cooled the wicks will be set. For this tea light project I used a little extra wax so you would have enough leftover for a repour. If you are using a pillar/votive blend then save your wax for a repour. Step 5. Repour Note: this step is optional. If your tea lights are level when cooled you won't need to do a repour. Since I am using a votive/pillar wax I need to top off to level the candles. A repour is done when your initial wax pour has cooled and forms a concave indention in the center of your candle. A second wax pour (repour) is done to level it off. (See previous photo) To do a repour heat the leftover wax to a temperature approximately 10 degrees hotter than your first heating. In this case you will be reheating your wax to 195 degrees F. When the wax is ready, pour enough to top off each candle. Step 6. Wick Trimming and Cleanup Allow your tea lights to cool completely. Trim each wick to 1/4" inch using a wick trimmer or a pair of toenail clippers will work just fine. Put them aside in a place they won’t be disturbed to allow them to harden and cure for 24-48 hours. Clean up your area, making sure you have cleaned any spilled wax. I use paper towels for cleaning my counter top. I also use paper towels to clean the inside of my pouring pot while its still hot and the wax is still liquid enough to be absorbed by the paper towel. And now its time to enjoy your beautiful tea light candles!    
  2. 1 point
    Layered GlassGlow Container Instructions By jakalex Supplies: For these instructions I am using a 16oz Apothecary jar. I have taken 16oz and divided it by 3 for equal layers. Example: 16/3= 5.33..rounded to 5.35oz of wax for each layer The pictures are of a different container but show the layering process. You can use whatever container you want just decide how much wax the container will hold and the # of layers you want and divide layers into wax amount to get your weight for each layer. GlassGlow Palm Wax(16oz) Glass Container (16oz Apothecary) Wicks CD or CSN (Suggested wick size: 2-CSN 7 or 9’s or 2-CD 8 or 10’s) Wick stickums (glue dots will not work) Dye (Optional) Fragrance 1: Heat container(s) in oven @ 125 degrees 2: Melt wax in presto pot to 200 degrees 3: Remove from heat weigh out 5.35oz of wax and add color & fragrance (5-6%) 4: Remove container(s) from oven and place wick(s) (I use the shell of a ballpoint pen to press wicks in the hot jars) 5: Secure wicks with wick bar 6: Pour wax into container for 1st layer 7: Let layer cool completely 8: For the next layer repeat steps: 2, 3 then…. 9: Pour second layer on top of first layer 10: Take heat gun and heat around the 2nd layer on the outside of container. Turn container while applying heat to distribute the heat evenly. I try to apply most of the heat to the upper part of the layer to prevent colors bleeding between layers. Heat until the wax has released from the sides of the container. Let layer cool completely before pouring the 3rd and last layer. 11: For your third & final layer repeat steps 7-10.
  3. 1 point
    Skill level - Beginner to intermediate due to the layering aspect and being familiar with pouring pillars Pillar wax – this can be any type of pillar wax – either a blend, or straight paraffin. *NOTE- I have used IGI4625 and MP140 Pre-production blend wax – both with very similar results. With a straight paraffin you might want to add some sort of additives to keep it from mottling or being too rustic looking. You want them to be smooth and creamy looking. – I have never made these using a soy blend or straight soy so I cannot speak to the outcome, but I see no reason why it wouldn’t work with soy. As long as it’s a pillar wax – and can be molded. Mold – any metal pillar mold will work – I do not recommend plastic or polycarbonate molds as the scent tends to pit the plastic - I am using a conical metal mold for this due to the shape, it better represents a candy corn I believe. Wick - however you would normally wick the mold you are using, and whatever wick size works for the size candle you are making with the type of wax you are using is the wick you want to use. (to wick my molds, I use flat braided wicks and a homemade “jiffy wicker” system - explained within this tutorial) Scent - optional - I like my candy corns to smell like a candy corn so I will be using a Honey Vanilla/Candy Corn scent I get from Candles and Supplies Candle Dye - I find that liquid candle dyes work much better due to the fluid nature of the liquids vs. blocks that you have to melt. The blocks don’t disperse nearly as easily. Melt pot - this can be a double boiler or a presto pot. Whatever you are familiar with using to melt your wax. Pour pot - this is whatever you normally use to pour your wax into your mold with. If you use your presto pot for this, it might be easier to get/make and use a separate pour pot. Scale - to weigh out the wax you need and also scent if you use it. Additives - this is optional - only use additives if you normally use additives for your particular pillar wax you have chosen to use.*NOTE - I will be using the MP140 Pre-production wax for this tutorial which is a paraffin blend that requires no additives, so I will skip this part. If you are using additives, add them whenever you normally would for your pillars. Stir stick - To stir wax, scent and color. I use the handle of a wooden spoon. I’ve been using it for 14 years, and it hasn’t failed me yet. Skewer - To poke relief holes Heat Gun - Optional - it’s handy for cleanup Griddle or leveler - to level candle while still in mold Paper towels - optional but very helpful for clean-up Embed or tart mold(s) - optional but can be helpful Pliers - optional - I need them to undo the wick from the mold once the candle is ready to be unmolded Step 1: Weigh out your wax. Weigh out enough to fill your mold ⅓ of the way. I am going to be making 3 pillars at a time. For measuring purposes and ease of scenting each layer, I will use 8 oz of wax. Because each layer is a different color, I will be weighing out, melting and pouring 8oz of wax 3 times. Add wax to your melt pot and melt wax Step 2: As your wax is melting, weigh out your scent and set aside. Also prep your mold with wick. Since this is 8oz wax, I will be using .5 oz scent. Here is the homemade jiffy wicker system I use for wicking my pillars. It’s easy to make, just create a slip knot at one end of the wicking, so when pulling the long end it does not come undone, use a piece of craft foam cut into a square, and a wick tab.Then thread them all together. It will end up at the bottom of the mold and I put a wick bar across the top of the mold to secure the wick. Step 3: Determine your colors and get them ready. I use Peaks liquid candle dyes. For this particular candle I am using the following colors - Orange and Yellow. For the white, I am not using any color for the wax. Beware - this is a vanilla scent and can discolor your wax. Over the years, I have had them go to a darker off-white color but never anything darker than that. I don’t bother with a stabilizer, but if you want yours to stay pristine white, you might want to invest in one. Step 4: Once your wax is melted pour out of melt pot into the pour pot. Add scent as you normally would, but do not color. The first layer will be the top of your candle so you want to leave it white. Pour to the ⅓ mark of your mold. (I have my molds marked to where they should be poured too with a magic marker on the outside of the mold as you can see in the previous picture of my molds) Step 5: You will most likely have some wax left over from this first pour. This wax will be used again in the 3rd layer, so you can either set aside in your pour pot to melt later, or pour into embed molds. I like to pour mine into embed molds. Clean out your pour pot with paper towels to prepare for the second layer Step 6: While you first layer is setting up to be firm enough to hold the 2nd layer, now I weigh out my second layer wax and scent. Also prepare to color this layer orange. Once the first layer is ready to hold the second layer and your wax is melted, pour into your pour pot, scent and color. I use 1-2 drops (2 drops MAX) for this. The wax I use takes color very well, and if I use more than the 2 drops the middle orange layer gets way too dark. For these candles, I used 1 drop. This second layer (using the molds I use) will use all of this 8oz of wax, so no need to pour any extra into an embed mold. (See Step 10 if you have leftover wax) Step 7: Get ready for your 3rd layer. Your layers should look like this before pouring the next layer - For your third layer, repeat Step 6, but add the leftover wax from your first pour as well. Color with yellow and pour (I use 2 drops since yellow is a lighter color) Step 8: When your 3rd layer is set enough, poke relief holes Step 9: Once the candle is solid enough - finish off your candle with a repour. I take my wick bars off to do my repour, it makes it much easier and smoother so not as much leveling needs to be done at the end. Step 10: Set aside and let cool. You can either let them cool naturally, or after they are solid but still warm, you can place them in the refrigerator for a few minutes. If I am making a lot and on a deadline, I will place them in the refrigerator, if not, I let them cool naturally. Just do not freeze them. They could crack and split at the layers. Once the re-pour is done, if you still have wax left over (I never do at this point) you can pour it into an embed mold or tart molds to make wax melts. Step 12: Once cool, trim excess wick from taking the wick bar off, but don’t un-mold yet. - This part of the candle will most likely be bumpy and/or uneven. Warm a griddle (or whatever you normally use to level your candles) and level the candle. Clean griddle with a paper towel. Once that is done, undo wick and un-mold candle. For mine, it is sometimes difficult to get the slip knot untied, due to leaking wax or being too tightly tied, so I use a pair of pliers to untie the slip knot in the wick. Step 13: CONGRATULATIONS - At this point you should have beautiful Candy Corn scented pillar candles. The only step left now is to trim wicks, take a pic, post it, and enjoy the accolades of your beautiful creation!
  4. 1 point
    Marbling technique Skill level = Intermediate. *These candles can be made by a beginner, but I have found in teaching this technique that the more comfortable you are with the way your wax behaves, the easier it is to achieve the desired outcome. Equipment and supplies needed: Pillar wax – this can be any type of pillar wax – either a blend, or straight paraffin. - I have used IGI4625, IGI1343A and MP140 Pre-production blend wax – both with very similar results. *Note – I have never made these using a soy blend or straight soy so I cannot speak to the outcome, but I see no reason why it wouldn’t work with soy. As long as it’s a pillar wax – and can be molded. Mold – any metal pillar mold will work – I do not recommend plastic or polycarbonate molds due to the heating of the outside mold step performed later in the process (see …) Wick - however you would normally wick the mold you are using, and whatever wick size works for the size candle you are making with the type of wax you are using is the wick you want to use. Scent - optional Candle Dye - I find that liquid candle dyes work much better when doing this technique due to the fluid nature of the liquids vs. blocks that you have to melt. The blocks don’t disperse nearly as easily. Melt pot - this can be a double boiler or a presto pot. Whatever you are familiar with using to melt your wax. Pour pot - this is whatever you normally use to pour your wax into your mold with. If you use your presto pot for this, it might be easier to get a separate pour pot. Scale - to weigh out the wax you need and also scent if you use it. Additives - this is optional - only use additives if you normally use additives for your particular pillar wax you have chosen to use. *Note - I will be using the MP140 Pre-production wax for this tutorial which is a paraffin blend that requires no additives, so I will skip this part. If you are using additives, add them whenever you normally would for your pillars. Knife - just a little butter knife. This is for scraping the sides of the pour pot, leveling out the top of the mold (somewhat) and banging on the outside of the mold once it’s pour to help decrease air-pockets. Heat Gun - For step 9, and it’s handy for cleanup Griddle or leveler - to level candle while still in mold Paper towels - for clean-up Embed or tart mold(s) - optional Step 1: Weigh out your wax. Weigh out enough to fill your mold, plus a little extra for the re-pour. This will insure you don’t get sinkholes. Add to your melt pot and melt wax Melt wax until just liquid - (Or however you are comfortable with. The first part of this technique is exactly like making a normal pillar - I personally don’t take temps, ever, but for this particular technique temps are not necessary, unless you are stickler about when you add your scent - I know some scents require a higher temp. In that case melt as normal and add scent. I suggest to only melt until fully liquid, but not hot - the hotter your wax, the longer it will take to get to the slushy stage to pour into the mold) Step 2: As your wax is melting, weigh out your scent and set aside. Also prep your mold with wick. Step 3: Determine your colors and get them ready. I use Peaks liquid candle dyes. For this particular candle I am using the following colors - Hunter Green, Golden Honey/Vanilla, & Purple. Step 4: Once your wax is melted pour out of melt pot into the pour pot. Add scent as you normally would, but do not color yet. Make sure scent is fully incorporated. (at the lower temp I melt my wax at for this technique it takes a bit more stirring) Let sit for a while - anywhere from 5-15 minutes, until there is a thin build up on the sides of the pour pot. Step 5: Once the wax starts to cool and clings to the sides, gently start scraping the scraps off the side of the pot and stir - it may turn to full liquid again - just keep waiting, scraping, stirring, waiting, scraping, stirring until your wax finally gets to be very slushy, but not too liquid. This is where it starts to get tricky. You want it to be slushy but still pourable, but not so liquid that your colors run and become solid. Step 6: When you have hit your sweet spot of slushiness (with practice you will know when this is - also the pics hopefully will help you determine when that is) it’s time to use your colors. If using only 1 color you will put 4 drops of color in sort of an X pattern (see pic)- if 2 colors 2 drops of each color opposite of each other. *Since I am using 3 colors, I am putting 2 drops of green opposite each other, 2 drops of purple opposite of each other and 1 drop of the honey/vanilla right in the middle. Step 7: Another tricky part - now you want to take your knife and very gently but firmly swirl your colors into your was. Don’t stir too much to where you color all of your wax, but enough that you also get the color towards the bottom of the pot. For this I have no pic of how I do it, but I sort of stir up and down as well as in a circular motion. Total turns with the knife = no more than 4. (Otherwise you lose your marbling effect and it just becomes a solid colored pillar) -(Sorry the pic is blurry) Step 8: At this point your wax should look marbled and like the pic in step 7. Now you will pour that into your waiting prepared mold. Try to get the mold as full as possible - even pushing with your hands if necessary. (but be careful - even though it’s not molten, it is still hot) Once wax is poured in your mold, bang your mold on your work surface a couple of times (wax may splash out, this is where the goggles come in handy) then take your knife and bang it against the mold. Not hard enough to dent your mold or anything, but enough that it will clear any air bubbles. Step 9: We are almost done! At this point, you want to take your heat gun and gently heat the outside of your mold. This will accomplish 2 things - melt any wax into any bubble gaps, and also help make the outside of the candle a bit more shiny when you un-mold. Step 10: Set aside and let cool - checking in about 10-20 minutes to poke relief holes. You will most likely have a lot of wax left in your pour pot - remelt this remaining wax and use it for your re-pour. Once the re-pour is done, if you still have wax left over (I always do) you can pour it into an embed mold or tart molds to make wax melts. (after the re-pour has cooled a bit, and you would like to speed the cooling, you can place the filled mold into the refrigerator to accelerate the cooling process - this will also help with the gloss/shine of the finished candle) Step 12: Once cool, trim excess wick off top of poured mold, but don’t un-mold yet. - This part will most likely be bumpy and uneven. Warm a griddle (or whatever you normally use to level your candles) and level the candle. Once that is done, turn mold over, undo wick and un-mold candle. Step 13: CONGRATULATIONS - At this point you should have a beautiful marbled finished candle. The only step left now is to take a pic, post it, and enjoy the accolades of your beautiful creation!
  5. 1 point
    Rebatching fugly pillars by Georgia Rating for class: Beginner-intermediate. Required: a) Basic knowledge of pillar candle making Materials needed for class: 1 (or more) fugly pillar – wrong color(s), bad layering, or sun faded. Protected work surface – wax paper, butcher paper, newspaper Oven mitt, gardening gloves or wad of paper towels to cushion hand Extra pillar wax FO and color optional Tools for class: Mold with wick or wick pin Double boiler or presto Large butcher knife Directions: Start with one faded, too dark, wrong color or just plain fugly candle. This one started out lavender, white and purple and after a day in the sunshine ended up brown, yellow and purple. Yuk! Cover your work surface with butcher paper, wax paper, newspaper, or, in my case, a sheet of .040” thick polycarbonate. Prepare your mold with wick or wick pin and figure how much wax will be needed for the new mold. Weigh your prepared mold. Mine weighs 7 oz. If you start with a 3x3 pillar you can end up with a 3x4 pillar. Or if you use the excess for the over pour, you can end up with a 3x3. I started with a 3x3 and prepared a 3x4 mold. The “Handy Calculator” http://www.candletech.com/general-in...dy-calculators/ says I need 20 oz of wax, but I know with my wax I need 22 oz. Using a butcher knife and something to cushion your hand, start by cutting the candle in half. Along with giving you a larger flat area to work with it allows you to see if you had any air pockets in the candle. Dissection is a good thing to do every now and then. I have my old Tigger hot mitt, but gardening gloves or a wad of paper towels work well. Start slicing the candle. Make cuts from 1/8” to ¼” to 3/8” thick. Vary the thicknesses to give some chunks and some shreds. You will end up with a pile of wax looking somewhat like pulled pork. If your mold is really cold, zap the bottom with the heat gun. Dump handfuls of wax into your prepared mold. Shake and tamp to pack it in fairly well. I use my fingers to press it in. As you shake the tiniest particles will end up in the bottom of the mold. You need the mold warm there or your over pour may not be warm enough to turn the crumbles into a solid candle. Weigh the filled mold and subtract the empty mold weight to figure how much over pour you will need. Mine weighed 25 oz. So, subtracting the empty mold weight (7 oz.), I know I have 18 oz. of shreds and need 6 oz. of over pour (22-18=6) Heat your over pour wax to around 190*. You can scent it or not as you wish. I don’t add anything except UV inhibitor to my over pour but you can add whatever you normally add to pillar wax – UA, vybar, steric. You can even add more color or a contrasting color. Pour the over pour quickly down the center of the mold. Tap the sides with a spoon to dislodge any air bubbles. You can also zap the sides with a heat gun for a smoother surface. Now, have patience and wait for the candle to completely cool. These are out of the mold and looking a bit like cotton candy. Much better than the original candle! (Yes, I had more than just that little 3x3 fugly to start with!)
  6. 1 point
    Q: Why do you pour your tester container candles wickless? A. When testing, it is best to pour wickless. When the candle cools completely, take a skewer or knitting needle and poke a hole down the middle where the wick will go. Take the wick that you want to test, pop it out of its tab, and stick it down in the hole. Go back with a heat gun and zap the hole to fill it in. If you begin testing the wick and don't like the way it is burning, simply pop the wick out and put another one in.
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